In sorting through a stack of "RVers Online Mailbox" email, we came across a simple question from some RV friends planning on a visit to the area where we live -- in the San Juan Islands. They had noted our recommendation of establishing a home base in Anacortes. And having never visited this part of the country, they were anxious to have our thoughts about some sightseeing options. We thought that some of our readers who might contemplate a trip to this far northwest corner of Washington State might be interested in our response...
Dear Tim & Darlene,
We're delighted that at long last you're finding your way into our corner of the country. We're also happy to make some suggestions for things to do and see while you're here.
Much of what you will likely want to see around here is accessible only by water, using the Washington State Ferry system. Because of the relatively high cost of taking RVs on the the ferries, and for the further reason that RV parks are limited at many of the ferry destinations, we think the best solution is to make Anacortes, WA your base camp. One of our "Top 10" RVers Online parks, the Fidalgo Bay RV Resort, is located right on the water there, and the facilities are outstanding. Check their home page for details. You'll note that they offer short term storage for your RV for the days that you'll be away; and of course you can use your tow vehicle to make some of the trips we'll mention.
No doubt you'll want to save some of your time to see what's in and around Anacortes itself. You'll find plenty of interesting shops and restaurants here, many of which are oriented to the waterfront. We'd especially recommend the scenic loop drive through Washington Park, which is a mile or so beyond Skyline Marina. Better still, hike or bike some or all of it. The views are nothing short of spectacular. Just south of Anacortes you'll find the bridge across Deception Pass -- leading to Whidbey Island. Be sure to park on either side of the bridge, and walk across it. Again, the views are wonderful. Whidbey Island also makes a wonderful scenic day's journey. It has classic small northwest farmland, and several small villages that you will find of interest.
Another day trip south would be to the town of LaConner, about a half hour drive from Anacortes. This town has some of the best restaurants and shops you'll find anywhere in the Northwest. It's a major attraction for persons living all over Washington, even though it seems few persons from out-of-state are even aware of its existence. Be sure to get a lunch or dinner reservation before you go, regardless of the season. And if you're up to a night's lodging, you'll find a number of very attractive B&B type accommodations available.
A short day trip to the north offers the opportunity to take "Chuckanut Drive", a twisting road along the waterfront leading to Bellingham. You'll find yourself coming into Bellingham directly past the Alaska Marine Highway terminal -- the inside passage to Alaska. We challenge you to stop by, learn about the fabulous options for taking the ferry to one of the many Alaskan ports it serves -- and resist booking a reservation for a future trip! We know, because we're contemplating our fourth voyage. A few blocks further into town you'll come across the "Fairhaven District", which will catch your attention for at least a wonderful lunch and some shopping. A quick return trip will bring you down Interstate 5 and back to Anacortes.
From Anacortes you'll also be about 90 minutes away from Seattle to the South; and to Vancouver, British Columbia, to the North. You'll be quite happy NOT to have your RV in either place -- but both are beautiful cities with the usual full complement of cultural amenities. If you do find your way into Seattle, we'd especially recommend you plan to spend some time at the waterfront "Pike Place Market". And be sure to bring back some fresh seafood for that evening's barbecue. Also visit the Ballard locks. These locks provide shipping access from the salt waters of Puget Sound to the higher levels of the fresh water lakes which cut through the city. You might want to have lunch at one of the many restaurants in the nearby area. Ray's Boat House might be a good choice. Look on your map for Shilshole Bay.
A day's drive to Mount Rainier, located southeast of Seattle, is well worth your while. You can literally drive to Paradise! Here you will find a lodge, day hikes, and, assuming sunny weather (which we do get here, contrary to some advertised notions) the views will be spectacular.
Moving on to the many ferry based options, there are really about as many as your imagination might choose to link together. The Ferry system serves four of the San Juan Islands, which represent probably 95% of the population, but less than 5% of the islands -- a few of which disappear at low tide.
Depending on the island you choose to visit, expect to pay approximately $25 - $35 for your car or truck and two passengers. Keep in mind this is a round trip ticket, as the return trips from the islands are free. Moreover, once you're on one of the islands, you can walk on the "inter-island" ferry free. There's a slight charge if you want to take along a bike or, as some do, a kayak. By the way, kayaking in the islands is a very popular option, and many outfitters offer half, full day, or even multi-day trips around some of the protected waters. This always includes a quick lesson for those who are doing it for the first time.
Let me comment briefly on each of the four ferry-served islands:
For everything you'll want to know about the San Juan Islands, we highly recommend the San Juan Island Directory, a local public service page maintained by Ian Byington in Friday Harbor.
On the assumption that you might want to consider a multi-day trip beyond the San Juan Islands, we could write a book of suggestions. We'll offer up just a few of our personal favorites instead:
Take the ferry from either Anacortes, or from Friday Harbor, to its Canadian destination in Sydney, on British Columbia's Vancouver Island. It's only about an hour and a quarter east of Friday Harbor. Most people visit Sydney because it's only 15 miles from Victoria -- probably the most British of any city you'll find outside of the United Kingdom. If you're due some self indulgence, book a room at the Empress Hotel. And regardless of where you stay, be certain to visit the Royal Museum. Both places are at Victoria's inner harbor, the hub of almost everything there.
A lesser known option from Sydney, but among our favorites, is to head north towards Nanaimo. Just north of Nanaimo there is a road leading to the outer (West) coast of Vancouver Island. Here you'll find the tiny villages of Ucluelet and Tofino, separated by about 30 miles of the most spectacular ocean beaches you'll find anywhere in the world. Our choice is always to spend the night at one of the motels in the Tofino area, have dinner at "The Loft", and check out what's new at the gallery next door, which showcases spectacular Northwest Indian art.
A shortened version of this would be to stop at Port Alberni for two nights, sandwiching a full day's trip on the local "mail" boat, the MV Lady Rose, which visits a number of isolated camps along the long fjord which leads to the Pacific Ocean.
And a variation on the Port Alberni boat trip is an even more remote "mail boat" trip which occurs usually twice weekly from Gold River, further up Vancouver Island's largely unpopulated West coast, and accessible by road from just north of Campbell River.
Incidentally, you can return from any of the Vancouver Island destinations via the BC Ferry System, either from Nanaimo or from Sydney, to one of two ferry destinations near Vancouver, British Columbia. At that point you'll be less than two hours from your RV home base in Anacortes.
This quick listing would be incomplete if we failed to let you in on what may be the most spectacular of all trips -- the North Cascades highway. Highway 20, which leads from Anacortes east to the Cascade range, will take you through the breathtaking scenery which is locally known as the "American Alps". We've been to the Alps in Europe, and we find the American version every bit as spectacular. The "circle tour" would be to go across the Cascades in one direction on Highway 20, staying either in Winthrop (a "real" Western town), or at the nearby Sun Mountain Lodge. A few miles further west, at Mazama, is an attractive new resort-type lodge called the Freestone Inn. If a B&B is your style, we'd recommend Sunny Meadows, about 2 miles north of Winthrop on the West Chewuch road.
The circle trip then has a return leg via Stevens Pass, on Highway 2. This will take you through a very authentic Swiss village called Leavenworth, where there are numerous overnight and restaurant options.
Of course you can make some or all of this circle trip via RV as well, so long as you don't mind some fairly steep and winding grades. Our favored RV stops depend on the time of year, as the Columbia River state parks are wonderful in the winter, but too warm for us in the summer. Similarly, while the forest service campgrounds at Klipchuck and Lone Fir (on highway 20); or at Lake Wenatchee State Park, or at the Icicle RV Park in Leavenworth (both on Highway 2) provide relief from the heat in the summer, they're snowed in for several months in the off-season.
Well, guys, that's about it for starters. Any of the trips we've discussed will take you to places that have many, many attractions beyond which we can discuss here. But we hope it will at least provide you with some suggestions or options for exploring this wonderful corner of the country!
Tom & Stephanie"
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