With the benefit of our recent RV trip to Baja, we think we have learned a number of valuable tips which can help RVers who are planning an adventure to this part of Mexico. Here are the tips we find the most important:

1. In addition to starting with a full tank of fuel, the advice to fill up when your tank is down to half is not conservative enough. The most recent AAA maps, which purport to be recently "checked" for accuracy, erroneously indicate gas and diesel at places where there is either no longer any Pemex station; or where contrary to the AAA advice, there gasoline only. The problem is particularly critical for RVers who need diesel. Diesel owners need to know this: Notwithstanding lots of information to the contrary, there is NO diesel between San Quintin and Jesus Maria, just north of Guerrero Negro. That's a stretch of nearly 250 miles. Keep in mind, too, that Pemex stations often have erratic hours, run out of fuel, and are not always easily accessible for big rigs. The problem is clearly not unmanageable if one plans ahead carefully; but we would not do this trip again without taking perhaps 10-15 gallons of extra diesel with us. We found "RV friendly" Pemex stations in abundance as far south as San Quintin. After that the best bets were Catavina (gasoline only, and short hours), Jesus Maria, Vizcaino, and 3 miles south of Mulege. We have not reported on points further south.

2. Dollars are readily accepted every place we went, but the exchange rate offered can be less advantageous the further south one travels. Our suggestion would be to exchange at least enough to cover the cost of fuel. Mexican currency can be purchased just north of the Tijuana border -- but maneuvering a big rig through this area can be a bit hectic. If you're staying the previous evening in a nearby location, we'd suggest driving there without the RV, as parking will be easier. Make sure you're not asked to pay either a commission or other form of service fee. If you would like to exchange for the highest available rate, you'll need to find an open bank in Mexico -- at a time when they are willing to exchange currency. Expect a long line. We found it useful to take a fairly hefty number of $5 and $1 bills (U.S.) with us, and they came in very handy.

3. Expect a fair number of "inspections" along the road -- mostly staffed by military personnel with weapons. If the traffic is light, as it was when we visited, the odds are high that you'll be selected for an inspection of the inside of your vehicle on multiple occasions. In general, however, the military persons seem well trained to be polite in carrying out their duties. One officer will ask to see inside your RV. One or two others are trained to observe your behavior. They are as interested to detect any signs of nervousness which might indicate you are hiding either guns or drugs -- which we suspect could trigger a much more comprehensive search. Typically the inspecting officer enters your RV, walks through it opening a few drawers and doors, and then promptly exits, wishing you a pleasant trip. The whole thing may last a minute or two. While we found these "inspections" somewhat annoying, it is clear Mexico has a bona fide concern about drugs and arms being smuggled through Mexico -- apparently often from or too Panama. We did not detect any of the inspecting officers with intentions of taking any of our personal effects. However, we made sure each day that all of our valuable small items -- cameras, GPSs, or other valuables -- were either with us in the truck, or, better yet, in one of the drawers or cupboards rendered absolutely inaccessible when the slider is "in".

4. South of Ensenada, plan on no hookups. You may find some, but don't count on it! So often we found RV parks which appeared to have hookups, but they did not work. In some places, such as Catavina, there simply is no electricity. The water, where available, is of course something you wouldn't want to drink. That's why you remembered to fill your own tank before entering Mexico, and also brought along a few gallons of purified water. If you're planning on extended dry camping, such as on the wonderful beaches south of Mulege, do bring lots of containers for fuel, water, and even waste water. You'll need them. You'll also need either a generator or solar power if you'd like to continue to enjoy the comforts of your RV. There are exceptions to the "don't expect hookups", such as the two parks just south of Mulege. Just don't count on finding many!

5. Should we take our pet on a Baja trip? While the answer will be different for others, our experiences in Mexico have persuaded us that Missie, our Brittany spaniel, would be better off in a doggie motel in the San Diego area. Missie is a very energetic dog, and needs lots of outside exercise. Many of the places we visited had very unhappy and unhealthy strays wandering around. And the extensive littering which seems to characterize any populated area in Mexico means she'd likely be picking up lots of stuff that we'd prefer she not have in her mouth. We sometimes had second thoughts, as so many of the pristine beaches we visited would have been great places for her to run free. But on balance, we'd make the same decision again. We had no difficulty in finding a good boarding facility in Chula Vista, just a few minutes north of the border.

6. When planning your travel schedule in Baja, we'd suggest not being overly ambitious in charting a daily mileage target. A 200-250 mile day would be more like 300-400 miles north of the border. Expect your road speed to average 35-40 miles per hour, not 50 or 55. Stretches of rough road, hilly country in the north, underpowered Mexican trucks, and the ever-present "inspections" all combine to guarantee modest progress at best. We also would recommend finding an overnight stop by mid-afternoon, as it is sometimes considerable distance between suitable overnight options. And finding an RV park in the dark (when there may well be no lighting at all) would offer a challenge you can do without.

7. What about caravans? We passed two heading south when we were returning north. The advantage, of course, is the "security" of having someone else make all the arrangements, and not having to be concerned where to stay, where to fuel up, etc. But for this added comfort, expect to pay a hefty premium. And if you reach a place you'd like to explore more thoroughly, you'll be stuck with the pre-arranged schedule. For us, we find the "do it yourself" trip is much superior. Baja is essentially a very friendly, and in our experience, a very safe place to travel. We genuinely enjoyed our interaction with the locals we met; and we found virtually all of the RVers we encountered pleasant and interesting as well.

8. What, you say you speak no Spanish? Not to worry. Most of the persons you'll talk to will understand enough English to let you accomplish whatever it is you want to do, whether it's filling your tank or ordering an excellent Mexican meal. Best of all, they truly appreciate any effort you make to speak their language. So by all means, if you really speak no Spanish at all, at least commit yourself to learning how to say such simple things as "good morning", "good afternoon", "goodbye", "please", and "thank you". If you're like me and can speak at least rudimentary Spanish, you'll find they genuinely appreciate your effort, however imperfect. This is not like attempting to speak French in Paris!

9. Whenever you get travel information of any type, from any source, in Mexico, always do yourself a favor and add the word "maybe" at the end of any declarative sentence. Thus, a roadside sign that proclaims an RV park just ahead with "full hookups", you should do yourself a favor and add "maybe" to the claim. Similarly, when a well meaning Pemex attendant tells you that while his town doesn't have diesel, the next town only 30 kilometers further along has diesel. You add the "maybe", and you'll never be unpleasantly surprised. And finally, when you see the truck in front of you with his left turn lights flashing, you may be getting a signal which by local custom means it's safe to pass. Possibly it is -- but DO add "maybe"!

10. What about food and water? I tend to be one of those who can catch the "Aztec Twostep" fairly easily in mainland Mexico. But I've never had even a hint of malaise in my travels to Baja. We've both enjoyed dining out there, and this has included sampling just about everything, specifically including excellent fresh salads. And while we've always been careful about water, apparently the ice that gets mushed up in a tasty margarita is usually reliable. Naturally we filled our fresh water tank to capacity before we left, and we actually used very little of it. On occasion we hooked up to a water utility, but we did not drink it. It of course bypasses our onboard water supply, so when we wanted to use our own water again later, we always ran the water for about 30 seconds to purge the lines.

11. Tourist Cards? We've always wondered from year to year just exactly what was required to go into Mexico. We always understood going just over the border required no special tourist cards or permits; but that going more than 50-60 miles or so further would require some sort of special permit. It never seemed quite clear exactly what was required. And after this trip, we can reliably report that confusion still reigns. From all the advice we could gather, we could travel in Baja as far south as Ensenda. But once we were to set sail for the more southern regions of Baja, we surely would need to have some sort of "Tourist Card". This would of course entail ownership papers (pink slips) for our vehicles, evidence of insurance, and the like. All the books said once we were south of Ensenada, we would have to pass through some sort of Mexican Customs where we would display all these documents, and hopefully eventually get whatever "permits" we needed. To our surprise, we started south from Ensenada, and passed through Maneadaro without any "customs stop" of any sort whatsoever. We wondered about that, since we would be going into the "interior" without any "permit". And while persons who follow may have a different experience, we NEVER encountered a Mexican Customs office -- so we kept going. And, happily, no one ever asked further south, or on the way north. Our experience suggested that at the moment there are enough "inspections" (described above) to satisfy the (perhaps sometimes) need for whatever tourist cards may be required from time to time when visiting Baja. Just remember our advice from above when considering what's required for travel in Mexico -- add "maybe"!

If these tips combine to make RV travel in Baja seem difficult or unpleasant, you've missed our point. We think Baja is a great place to take an RV. The people are among the friendliest you'll find anywhere. The sights are spectacular, and much of the country retains its unique character. And you'll find your dollars go a long way as well. We've included "Tips" not to discourage travel there, but rather to help RVers prepare for a trip to Baja which will be as enjoyable as possible.

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