POSTCARDS
Stephanie is one of those persons who is always mailing postcards back to family and friends. Somehow, by writing in very small scribble, and filling not only the intended message area, but with sideways writing, arrows, and otherwise using virtually every available area on the postcard, she can get an awful lot of information onto a very small space. She'll be reporting in here from time to time on our travels, experiences, impressions and general state of mind.
Postcard: Chistmas 1997
December 21, 1997
While I usually don't send "Postcards" from home, this time of year calls for an exception. Tom and I have been sending a Holiday verse to our friends for many, many years. This year we'd like to include all of our RVing friends here at our web site -- So with our best wishes for a wonderful Holiday Season, and happy trails in 1998, here goes:
ENTER "1" FOR SANTA...
Catalog shopping this year was our goal
We dialed "800 - CHRISTMAS" and got the North Pole
We had hoped to reach Santa, but to no avail
For the most we could get was Santa's Voice Mail
"Enter `1' if your presents are for those that are good
Enter `2' if they've not been the best that they could"
And, "Oh yes, you should know that my Elves listen in,
They monitor calls every now and again".
We entered "1", as for all that we knew
Our friends are all angels (except for a few)
"Enter `1' for delivery by Sleigh (which costs less)
Enter `2' if you'll need them by Reindeer Express"
Things were going quite well, good news was foretold
We were making some progress, and not put on hold
"Enter `1' if you're charging to Visa today
Enter `2' if a new Clinton program will pay"
"Enter `1' for a list of all gifts now in stock
Enter `2' for my `Special' to place in a sock"
Overwhelmed by the choices, what should we do?
We pondered a moment -- and then we pressed "2"
It was then that it happened: At first a long pause
Then a REAL voice was talking -- and it WAS Santa Claus!
"Enough of those numbers! You've chosen quite well
My `Special' this year at last I can tell"
"To your RVing friends -- right from ME they will hear it:
I grant them the happiest Christmas tide spirit
And for them as well a gift they'll hold dear --
A prosperous, healthy, and Happy New Year"
"Press Pound seven-one, as we've finished this call
I've given my message, now that will be all
Or if tapping at phone keys is just not your cup
Your very last choice...is simply hang up!"
Merry Christmas 1997!
Tom & Stephanie
Postcard: Flying to Florida
November 15, 1997
Without an RV, the trip from our Pacific Northwest home to Florida only takes a few hours. However, I love RVing and I am far from enamored with flying. Transcontinental flight, economy class, means being bottled up with other, similarly situated souls traveling speedily but sterilely to their destinations. Even the prospect of two days in a Naples resort hotel didn't make me too happy about flying. We had contemplated driving and stretching the trip out over a couple of weeks or so, but found we really didn't have the time. So off we went.
We arrived in Miami at night, had a quick light supper and set out for Naples the next morning. We chose to drive to Florida's west coast via the picturesquely named Alligator Alley. Would we see alligators? Cypress trees? The Everglades?
Alligator Alley is an 80 mile stretch of toll way. If you are looking for restaurants, places to spend the night or gasoline stations, you will be disappointed. If you are looking for nature, birds and the 'glades, you will love it. Even from the speeding car I saw anhuingas, egrets, hawks, herons and wood storks -- and berated myself for having left behind both binoculars and bird book. The Everglades stretch out for miles on either side of the roadway, beautiful and empty. There are several places where one can launch a small fishing boat, and we saw several fisherfolk out trying their luck. Both the launch areas and the one rest stop we saw came complete with one of two signs, either "Nighttime Security" or "No Security"! Florida has become very aware of its reputation as a trap for the unwary tourist.
Naples is on the West coast - the "Sun Coast". It is a lovely city, with an old section restored for shopping and antique browsing. Almost every street that runs to toward the water dead-ends at a beach access. Some of these have parking meters, others require beach passes; all provide access to one of the world's most lovely beaches. Hard packed white sand, some crushed (and some whole) shells, and gentle surf. the beach runs for miles, and with the easy access makes a wonderful walking or jogging area. North of Naples are the similar beaches of Estero, Sanibel and Captiva Islands. Beaches for everyone.
Although we were staying at a beautiful resort hotel, we are Rvers at heart. As such, we were on the alert for RV Parks. There are few in Naples, but to the north, and especially inland, we found more and more of them. We saw some very nice campgrounds, with wide grassy sites, flat (not a surprise in Florida where the highest point of land is 345 feet!) with full hookups. Many were right on or close to golf courses. Many were near water -- whether ocean, lake or inland waterway.
Tom was attending an American Bar Association meeting. He went to meetings, I went on an Everglades tour. Gator tours is somewhat misnamed as we saw no alligators in the wild. However, meeting the tour captain was reason enough to spend a few hours in a noisy air boat skimming through the mangroves. We were boating through and over his family's property, where he had spent most of his life. He bragged that he had only worn shoes three times in his life -- for two weddings and one divorce. Showing us some decidedly undersize crabs one of the many pots on the property, he declared that all were "keepers", as there is "not too much law in these parts". The Army Corps of Engineers got his blame for Everglades destruction. The use of dams in the area and later the destruction of the same dams, led to the intrusion of the Mangrove Trees (he termed them "weeds") which have ruined the water in the area. He told the tour that his brother and sister would have to move from their home since it is situated too close to an endangered panther area. Certainly a different perspective of events for this Pacific Northwesterner.
Two nights in Naples, then on to visit full-timing friends in Arcadia about 90 miles north and east of Naples. No more the intense humidity, the air and the land are much dryer. Here there are cattle ranches and orange groves. Numerous18 wheelers passed loaded with fruit probably destined for a non-Florida market. Have you ever noticed how the best produce from one area gets shipped to another? The best Idaho potatoes are not found in Idaho -- the best Washington apples go elsewhere. And so it goes...
Leaving Arcadia, heading southeast toward Miami, we passed through the sugar cane areas. Miles and miles of cane, with several sugar plants in full production assisting the setting sun in darkening the skies. We missed seeing Lake Okeechobee as it was hidden behind large levees, and we were hurrying to turn in our rental car, find a hotel and ready ourselves for the morning trip home.
We found a hotel right next to the airport and across the street from the rental car return. That was the good news. The less than good news was checking in with at least half of a Carnival Cruise, passsengers at the ready to start their vacations. The silver lining was sharing the buffet which the hotel puts out for the passengers -- delicious.
Now off on a transcontinental flight to San Francisco, a shuttle to Seattle and a ferry ride to our islands. Home again!!
Postcard: Point Reyes National Seashore
November 5, 1997
Having explored the coasts of Mendocino and Sonoma counties, it seemed only fitting to give Marin county a chance. What a good idea that was!
Travel north from San Francisco toward San Rafael. Turn west onto Sir Francis Drake Highway and follow it through San Anselmo and Fairfax, past the smaller towns of Woodacre and Lagunitas and wind through the redwoods of the Samuel P. Taylor State Park to Highway 1.
At Highway 1, you enter the town of Olema. Olema has a couple of restaurants, nice deli, a hotel and a "shaky" reputation. It has been the epicenter of several earthquakes, including the 1906 quake and the most recent, the Loma Prieta quake. One seismic "plate" is located directly on the west of Highway 1 here; another directly to the east. Earthquakes come naturally to Olema.
So does beauty. Only a mile more and you enter the park. We picnicked at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Here you can follow the Earthquake Trail for .6 mile, or walk to see the resurrected Kule Lokio, a Miwok Indian Village. The center is full of information for a day or longer trip. Camping in the park is backpacking camping and permits are available at the center.
We could have spent several days here. We had only a half day and so drove to Limantour Beach. A short drive, through groves of madrona and eucalyptus, over gently rolling hills, watching the redtail hawks soar! Heaven.
The soft sandy beach at Limantour was not very crowded. The birding was supreme. Some 450 different species have been counted at Point Reyes and I added substantially to my list of duck sightings.
If I had had more time to explore Point Reyes, I could have attended one of their field seminars, lighthouse tours or birdwalks. There was posted a calendar of the best fall times and places for tide pooling. There are two other visitor centers at Point Reyes which we had to miss. And in the winter, there are shuttle busses to view the gray whale migration and elephant seal breeding season.
This area, being closest to the metropolitan areas, gets the most visitors. However, in the "shoulder" seasons, it is absolutely lovely and demands another trip further to explore the seashore.
Now, however, it is time to return to our Islands and enjoy the Holidays with family and friends. Knowing us, we'll not be home long until the "go" bug bites again.
Postcard: Doran Park
October 30, 1997
This morning, we breakfasted at the Tides restaurant in Bodega Bay. We had a delicious breakfast, and quite enjoyed the performances which went with it.
The restaurant is situated on pilings over the water, and the procession of waterfowl swimming by was astounding. Coots by the hundreds, Bufflehead and Goldeneye, loons and grebes, all also out for breakfast. We watched a cormorant dive for and capture a small fish, swing it around to get it in the proper position for swallowing, and drop it! He promptly dived again and came up with another. This time he was much more cautious with its handling.
One star of the show was an enormous California Sea Lion. He swam right up to the windows, barked to show off his teeth, lay on his side and extended a flipper, and then remained motionless with his head and bulky neck protruding straight up out of the water. There he stayed until the cries of several gulls suggested to him that there might be fish in another area, and off he swam.
The tone of the day was set. This was to be a naturalist day. We started by finding a spot to stay at Doran Park, a Sonoma County Regional Park. The park is right between Bodega Harbor and Bodega Bay; on one side is the tidal area, on the other the ocean waves. This is not a dangerous surf area, in fact, the swimmers and surfers were out in force. In the summer, and often on weekends, the park is full, there are "overflow" lots for the day campers, and, according to our campground host, all the campsites are often taken. Its worth a try, however, this is a great spot.
The campgrounds here are beautifully set out. There are four separate areas, Shell, Gull, Cove and Jetty campgrounds. Each has several circles, with ten spaces each, all set so that each has its own view of the bay. There are cypress trees and flat sandy beach areas covered with ice plant and other succulents -- nature's landscaping. While there are no hookups, there is water available at each campground, and there is a dump station, albeit a difficult one to use.
Birding. I have never seen such flocks of shorebirds as are in Bodega Harbor. But then, I had never seen a Marbled Godwit before, and now I have seen several thousands. Mixed in with them were Killdeer, Black Turnstones, Sanderling, and Dunlin. Ducks included Northern Pintails, Lesser Scaup, Surf and White winged Scoter. I saw herons, brown and white Pelicans, and Great and snowy egrets. I had a wonderful time.
In the afternoon, we explored south toward Tomales Bay. This area has changed very little since we lived here long (can it be more than 30 years?) ago. But we didn't remember the Hog Island Oyster Company. It is located on Highway 1 almost at the head of Tomales Bay behind a now defunct antiques store. Delicious oysters in varying sizes, you choose and come away with delicious dinners, stews, or, in our case, hors d'oeuvres.
Treasure in hand, we were off for our new campground, a long beachwalk and dinner. We will definitely return to this area and to this campground, again.
Postcard: The Sonoma Coast
October 29, 1997
70 miles west of Napa, and 80 miles north of San Francisco, is the Sonoma Coast. The ocean town of Bodega Bay will serve as our home base for a couple of days while we explore.
We drove west from Napa through some of the premier California wine country. At Petaluma, vineyards become farms and ranches. Petaluma was once the chicken capital of the state; now the chicken coops have becomer relics and the chickens largely replaced by dairy cattle, sheep, and the ever-present llamas. The Petaluma Poultry Producers plant is still in existence, however.
Northwest through Two Rocks Valley to Valley Ford. Pumpkin patches abound -- every house has more than Jack-O-Lantern. If fact, this area is Halloween crazy -- there are Halloween banners attached to the eaves, "spider webs" hanging from the porches, witch faces in the windows and ghosts hanging from the trees. Today while getting some lunch groceries, it was hard to find a checker -- everyone was in the back of the store, putting candies in small paper bags, treats for the elementary school tomorrow! One young girl came into the store and told the clerk she was going trick or treating tomorrow. His response? "So am I"!
Bodega Bay is bisected by highway 1. The attractive houses on the shore side seem squashed between the road and the beach. There are several nice restaurants, a great fish market and several art galleries. We explored a nearby state park just north of town as a place to camp for the night, but found the sites a bit confining for anything other than the smallest of RVs, so chose instead the very nice, full service, Bodega Bay RV Park.
The Sonoma coast is gorgeous -- its moist and warm climate means everything grows here. Cypress trees impress with their twisted shapes and lush green needles. Pampas grass is wild along the roads. Ice plants and other succulents cover the cliffs. And it is wild. No carefree strolls along the beaches here; there are warnings for sleeper waves -- sudden waves which wash high up the beaches and which have been known to sweep children and adults out to sea. No free roaming for our dog; she loves to play tag with waves and would stand no chance against a big one.
This afternoon we made a scenic circle drive. Thirteen miles up the coast lies the tiny town of Jenner, our first stop. En route, the road winds along the coastal cliffs. There are beaches, with parking areas and access trails at least every mile as you drive north. The waves boom against the rocks and the brown pelicans soar along the wave crests. Two areas are to be avoided -- Death Rock and Goat Rock. They seem attractive climbing areas, but are so close to the water that there is danger from sleeper waves.
Jenner is at the mouth of the Russian River. Here we turned east and followed the river inland. In only 8 miles, we were in the heart of the Redwood country. Lovely big old groves shade the modest cabins beneath. Towns with names like Dutch Flat and Cazadero tempt the explorer. At Monte Rio, we turned south on the Bohemian Highway. Occidental is one of the prettiest of small towns in the are. It is beautifully preserved, with Victorian homes, hotels and B&B's attracting the traveler. It's well known for its bountiful Italian dining. Just south of Occidental, we left the Bohemian Highway and headed west again on the Bodega Highway. Home again!
Tomorrow we will dry camp at Doran Park, a county regional park and explore the country to the south -- Tomales Bay.
Postcard: Destination Shelter Cove -- The Problem and the Prize
October 23, 1997
It is only 25 miles from Garberville to Shelter Cove, a small resort village right on the ocean. Our first inkling that this might be an interesting trip came when we were informed that it would take us 90 minutes to get there... Surely that could not be right. We were going to drive, not walk!
It did not take that long, but it can take the better part of an hour; more if you stop to see the spectacular vistas and interesting homes and buildings along the way. There is quite a bit of traffic on the road, and from their rate of travel, they obviously knew the road better than we.
The road. It starts out tamely enough. The first couple of miles take you to the small community of Redway. Next you traverse one of the most beautiful stands of redwoods I have seen. Move over, Avenue of the Giants. Then in another few miles, here comes Briceland. The next small town is not on any map I have yet been able to find, Whitehill, CA. Here there is a nursery, a post office and a construction company, conveniently named Whitehill. The office of this company demands a stop and see. There is no way to describe it in words. The closest to a description came from one of the construction workers who said a small child described a portion of the building as "it looks like somebody stepped in bubble gum!"
So far, so good. We'll be on the coast in no time at this rate. Nope. This road has other plans for us. It adds hairpin turns and now there are only two directions -- up and down. The grades on this highway must be around 13-15% or more in places. The scenery is spectacular. As you climb the hills there are views of foggy valleys sprinkled with small farms, and which have intriguing names like "Nooning Valley" . The road climbs from 500 feet to 2100 feet and then in 5 miles, falls off (almost literally, it seems) to sea level. Tom was using our exhaust brake and third gear as we crawled down to Shelter Cove. There are a couple of campgrounds here and in the area, and with care, they are accessible -- though larger RVs would be challenged. We were very happy not to be towing today.
That's the "problem" part. The "prize" is well worth the effort. The bottom of the hill finds you in the King Range National Conservation Area, at the southern terminus of the Lost Coast Trail. You have arrived at the Black Sands Beach. For 24 miles, the trail takes you along the beach and over the cliffs at oceanside. A recommended 3 day backpacking trip, it appears to be one that few people make. Today there were two hikers returning from a trip; otherwise the beach was completely ours. This may be the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.
The town of Shelter Cove has several motels, a nice hotel, and a small RV park. There is a launch ramp on a "sheltered cove", and a sign on the marina store advertised boats for rent or charter. There were several vehicles with empty trailers parked on the sand next to the ramp, so fishing, or wishing, is still in full swing here. There is a golf course, and many homes with spectacular ocean views. There is also a landing strip;we were told that Shelter Cove was first envisioned as a secluded fly-in spot. The whole area is beautiful; perhaps crowded in summer, it is a wonderful fall drive.
Now back to Benbow Valley. I wonder what we'll do tomorrow....
Postcard: Scenic Byways -- The Redwood Highway
October 21, 1997
Leaving the Napa Valley and the St. Helena area, we headed north up California highway 29 --destination the Redwood Country. Highway 29 takes you to the small wine town of Calistoga, then through vineyard laden hills, and deposits you in Alexander Valley. Here many small family wineries line the roads. And the road makes some sharp turns avoiding them. One such turn brings you to within a few yards with of a beautiful old home painted blue/gray and white, with a sign designating it the Estancia Estate. A lovely home until someone, sometime, fails to make the 90 degree left turn and ends up in their front yard. Winding though it is, it is still and easy (if slow) drive for any size RV.
Once the road joins Highway 101, it straightens out and becomes mostly 4 lane as it travels north. About 100 miles will take you to the Benbow Valley RV Resort. Located just south of Garberville, this will be our "homeport" for the next several days. Tom was fantastic; he did the grocery shopping, set up the RV, and walked the dog. I played a few holes.
The Resort is located on the South Fork of the Eel River. It is within walking distance of the venerable Benbow Hotel for those who enjoy eating out; it has some lovely, non-traffic biking areas; and of special note, it has its own challenging hillside golf course. There are a number of scenic drives within a short distance of the Resort. We've listed the Benbow Valley RV & Golf Resort among our top picks. It seems others have found it worthy too, as it boasts winning the ARVC award for Best RV Park in the country for 1996. In our opinion it's deserved...
This morning we took off to explore the backroads of the Redwood Country. En route towards Eureka, we passed the Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt Redwoods and Grizzly Redwoods State Parks, following the Eel River all the way. Each of these drives would be interesting itself, but we had a destination in mind for today. The morning fog had not quite lifted; the redwoods loomed large and mysterious as we drove along.
About 12 miles south of Eureka, there is a turnoff for the town of Ferndale. It is advertised as the "Victorian Village" and it certainly fills that bill. Many of the homes have lovely Victorian facades; and are painted in the colors of that era. There is even a Victorian child's playhouse on Main Street. Today it was getting a barely needed new coat of Victorian paint.
We stopped to look around the "Golden Gait" mercantile. Here the floors are wooden, there are pickle barrels scattered around (no pickles though) and there are old Victorian remedies mixed in with more modern relishes and jams. I found a Marcell curling set. My grandmother marcelled her hair! And there were several bottles of "Lydia Pinkams Medicinal Compound". The folkgroup the "Irish Rovers" have a song about this "medicine" , but I did not believe it really had ever existed. I learned the story behind this "stuff", too. That it no longer contains the interesting ingredients of alcohol and codeine that it once had; that it was touted as a cure for "women's problems"; and its slogan was, "there's a baby in every bottle!" With those ingredients, relaxation would be one of its first byproducts.
Ferndale is the home of the inventor of Kinetic Sculpture racing, Hobart Brown. No, I had never heard of it, or him, either. In 1969, the first twelve racers with their sculptures on wheels raced down Main Street -- for fun and laughs. Now the race has been lengthened and made more challenging and there are many more entrants. Some of the sculptures include, the" Rabid Aqua-Bat", ( the first winner of the Peter Principle Golden Dinosaur" award for Outstanding Incompetence), the "Top Banana", the first overall Grand Champion, and the "Carrot Chariot", powered by 40 middle school kids. This sculpture earned special recognition and received the "Spirit of the Glorious Founder Award"!
The race now occupies 3 days, covers a 38 mile course, and is called the" World Championship Kinetic Sculpture Race". Each entry must be able to float as well as run on wheels, as the race crosses 2 miles of Humboldt Bay. There are awards for everything from winning to artistry, and from the pictures, it is obvious that the participants have a wonderful time.
Only five miles out of town is the ocean. We had a stroll along the sandy shore, and our Brittany had a run chasing killdeer (killdogs).
This area must be very crowded in the summer; today we seemed the only tourists in town. We were watched by about a dozen Night Crowned herons roosting on a large fir in the center of town. Bet the summer folks don't see that.!
Now back to Benbow, perhaps a short bike ride, and then a perusal of the maps to see where we shall travel tomorrow.
Postcard: Scenic Byways -- Levee Loops
October 16, 1997
Another set of dots on the map has become real to us. We decided to come to the Sacramento River Delta for a short stay and take advantage of the glorious weather central California is currently experiencing. The Delta area is a 1000 miles of waterway, winding around a series of Island and "Tracts" (which resemble islands as far as I can tell). These are created by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, which, with their myriad of subsidiary rivers and sloughs make the area a labyrinth of interesting places to go and things to see. The islands and tracts are created by a series of levees, ranging in height from 3 to 20 feet. Along the tops of the levees are winding roads which give a great glimpse of life here. I felt as if I were in the old South; pampas grass higher than my head, tall clumps of brown eyed susans, palm and eucalyptus trees, bougainvillea on the homes and lily pads in the back river eddies. Beautiful.
We camped last night at Brannan Island State Recreation Area, on a major slough just off the Sacramento River, about 3 miles south of Highway 12, the main route to Interstate 5, Stockton and Sacramento. The Trailer Life directory describes the sites here as "20x35". Short and narrow, eh? Perhaps that is the precise measurement of one of the sites; what the book does not tell you is that the campsites are typically spaced about 50 -75 feet apart from one another. (We've found this a common misdescription of state parks, and can't help but wonder whether this is an accommodation to the private RV parks which pay for advertising in the Directory). There is only water available here, but there is a dump station, and with care, we are self contained for quite a while using the sun to replenish the batteries each day. The park is quite large, with two areas for camping, three ramps for boat launching, a marina to dock your boat once it is launched, and a separate picnic and swimming area. Great birding ( Black Phoebes, Mockingbirds, Fox Sparrows and finches, and the gull population is booming). Our Brittany was so entranced by the number of Gray Squirrels that she ignored her dinner. Oh, and lest I forget -- the harvest moon! As glorious as I have ever seen it. You are so close to the real (and busy) world, and, at the same time, so very far away from it too.
The towns. Rio Vista. We have been through this town before, but never seen more than what's visible from a quite busy Highway 12. Highway 12 offers gas stations, some restaurants and a burning desire to be on your way. Rio Vista, the city off the highway, is charming, friendly and invites you to stay and enjoy the Delta. Oak lined streets, lovely old homes -- one with a "Widow's walk" on the roof, parks, marinas and restaurants.
We had breakfast at the River City Diner, one of those very small places where older gentlemen sit and drink coffee and discuss the local news. An excellent breakfast in a spot as far removed from a Dennys as it is possible to get. And then there is a second hand store, the "Second Coming". Around the store windows are printed a list of the articles you would be likely to find in this store. "Dresses, dust, toys, dust, appliances, dust, books, dust," and so on.
Tonight we are in the campground at Sandy Beach County Park, just south of town. It is right on the water and has electricity and water.
Going north on Highway 160, which traverses the levee on the east side of the Sacramento River, it's only a matter of minutes until you're into the center of town in Isleton, a small community of perhaps 200 residents. We were immediately struck by the fact that this somehow didn't seem like "California" at all. Perhaps that's because we've come to think of California as being all things new, glitzy, and commercial. Isleton is a sleepy river town, with a few remaining remnants of its Chinese heritage. This small towns, like others we were to visit on this "loop", is entirely defined by the waters of the delta which completely surround it. We could as well have been deep in the bayous of Louisiana, and never known the difference.
Walnut Grove. This town lies on both sides of the Sacramento River. On the West are the larger homes and farms, on the east the old town, with both a Chinese and a Japanese section. This part of town has yet to be restored, but the age and condition of the buildings is somehow intriguing.
Driving west from Walnut Grove, we took a ferry across Steamboat Slough to Ryer Island. Even though we take ferries to get to our island home, we go out of our way to take them whenever possible. And this ferry was right on our way. It crossed the slough in about 3 minutes, guided by cables.
We were off to visit Nicki Suard, the new owner of Snug Harbor RV resort. This small RV resort has a great deal of charm. It is situated right on the water -- something that the majority of resorts in this area are not. Usually you have to cross a levee road to get to the water. Nicki and her husband had recently acquired the property, and they are in the process of completely renovating both the marina and RV park. We think it will a real RVers "discovery" by next summer. The fully serviced sites not only have lots of trees and shade, but those along the slough have something unique: their own private dock! One of their first improvements was to become "modem friendly", as they had first contacted us through RVers Online. We will look forward to visiting next year to see how it is going.
Leaving Ryer Island we took another ferry! This one was not guided by cables, but run by diesel engines. We were the only car on the boat and the trip lasted a full 4 minutes -- shore to shore. The ferries serving Ryer Island are capable of handling any size RV. They don't run on any schedule. When a car or truck shows up, they set sail for the opposite shore. Best of all, they're free. With its upgrades completed, Snug Harbor will be one of a very few RV resorts which is accessible only by ferry!
We nicknamed the Rio Vista/Isleton/Walnut Grove/Ryer Island/Rio Vista trip the Old California Loop. From one side of our truck we could see the river and its related waterways; from the other side we could see the fruits of all this water. Pear Orchards, cornfields, smaller truck gardens, with attendant roadside stands, and marinas. There are places to camp, places to tie up your boat, places for jet skis and other personal watercraft, as will as places to fish.
And they do like to fish here. In June, there is a crayfish festival. In October, a Bass tournament. Sturgeon, black and striped bass, catfish, perch, crappie and sunfish are caught in the Delta. Fishermen on the riverbanks, fishermen anchored out in the water, lines flowing with the current. People were fishing off docks, from their boats tied up in marinas, and in ponds. It must be good fishing?
This afternoon we took another loop trip, this one through a more modern California. This area, to the south and east, is flatter and not so lush, but has many more amenities. Here are the larger marinas and RV parks. More marinas with more restaurants. This area seems to be geared first for the boater, next for the RVer with a boat and then for the RVer without. There are some very nice parks, but we did not find any that were on the water.
Most of the homes in the Delta are not on the water either, but rather set behind and below the levees. Therefore, most of the homes are built up, sometimes up three stories. The ground and first floors will have few windows. Then on the top level, levee level, there are picture windows, and often a deck to take advantage of the water views.
Our last loop trip was out to Bethel Island. We left Rio Vista, traveled south on state highway 160, and found ourselves in downtown industrial Oakley. Used car lots and junkyards formed an antithesis of our rural Delta of yesterday. Would we find the Delta here?
Yes, and no. Perhaps because of its proximity to the East Bay as well as Stockton and the northern San Joaquin Valley,Bethel Island seems a rural suburb instead of an out of the way spot. We discovered Sugar Bridge RV Park, which seemed very nice and has an adjacent restaurant right on the water. But the RV park itself was behind the levee; if you wanted a water view, you had to climb up to find it. And somehow, we found the atmosphere of the whole area different. Interesting, beautiful, but different.
There is a lot of the Delta left for us to explore. We would like to return to see more of the northern section. And our map shows ferries between many small islands which have no discernible roads upon them. Makes me wonder why the need for ferries at all. Next time, we shall see.
Postcard Postscript: Locke
November 3, 1997
Had we traveled only 1/2 mile further upstream from Walnut Grove, we would have discovered this gem of a town. Locke was built by those Chinese who had been driven out of the gold fields by the Irish miners. However, there was work for them here, on the railroads and building the levees.
The town is only one block long, but what an interesting block! Locke looks just like it used to; there is a prohibition of doing anything to any of these old buildings, except what is absolutely necessary to keep them from falling down. Therefore the sagging walls and roof lines will not collapse, but are reminders of what the town used to look like -- the buildings set very close together, with scenic walkways between some of them, wooden sidewalks protected by overhanging roofs, old and faded signs telling what stores used to be here.
Few people live in Locke (population: very small); there are two art galleries (not Chinese), one curio store (Chinese), one grocery store, and one restaurant.The old Chinese school was used until 1957 as a school-after-school for the children to help remember their heritage. The historical society has a museum in the old gambling hall. Here, in addition to myriad pictures and old newspapers, there are examples of many of the gambling games the men used to play. There is even a partition so that no one could look in and see who was gambling. Just in case someone's wife got curious!
Locke is a wonderful place to visit when you come to explore the Delta of the Sacramento River.
Postcard: Scenic Byways --Idaho
October 12, 1997
Most states have scenic byways, those roads marked with small dots on the map pointing out the prettiest ways to traverse the state. This past week we traveled three in central Idaho.
The "Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway ", Highway 21, leaves Boise and takes you to Idaho City. It's hard to believe that, at the height of the Idaho gold rush, this small town was the largest city in the state. A western motif town, Idaho City has boardwalk sidewalks, and western storefronts as well as art galleries and restaurants. (Calamity Jane's makes wonderful sobbin' (breakfast) potatoes).
Leaving Idaho City, the road climbs over Mores and Beaver Creek summits, (6000 feet ea.), winds through mountain forests, and descends into Lowman. Now it follows the South Fork of the Payette River. The South Fork is a "wild" river -- no dams -- and it flows over rapids, between tall cliffs and over natural waterfalls. It is a favorite of the white water kayaker, and in places is a serious challenge. In several places the river steams -- there are many pockets of natural hot water. In some you can actually have a geothermal bath!
As you climb out of the valley of the South Fork, you get a view of the Sawtooth mountain range which most tourists do not see -- one from the west. Now the road climbs over Banner Creek summit, an easy towing road even though the altitude is 7200 feet! The forests thin out and are interspersed with desert sagebrush. This is prime fishing and hiking country in the spring and summer, elk hunting country every fall and snowmobiling country each winter.
At Stanley, the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway joins Highway 75 out of Sun Valley and becomes the Salmon River Scenic Byway . We now follow the Salmon River en route to the city of Salmon and the Montana border.
This is a lovely trip, especially in the fall. The river is low, and when the weather is good, which is usually the case, the water fairly sparkles. The cottonwood trees lining the river banks have turned a glorious golden. The sumac trees show all colors of crimson. In the early mornings or late afternoon, you can see deer along with the cattle in the nearby fields.
Salmon is the largest of the small towns on this scenic byway trip. It has several nice motels and restaurants, and lots of "browsing" shops. It is also a good place to park an RV and take off in your tow (or toad) car for the third byway, the Lewis and Clark Scenic Byway.
Drive south on Highway 93, 20 miles to Tendoy. Tendoy is one store/gas station, a charming small schoolhouse, and several neighboring ranches. Turn left and follow the signs. For the first 10 miles, you wander up a canyon through ranches and farms. The gravel road will not allow for speed, which is fine. Coming around a bend this time, we were headlight to head with a herd of cattle, with Idaho cowboys herding them down to lower pastures for the winter.
The last two miles of the road are a steep rise to the Lemhi Pass and the Idaho-Montana border. At this spot, Lewis & Clark crossed the continental divide. Talk about seeing forever!. Now retrace your steps, or continue along the border. The byway is a loop which will return you to the Tendoy road.
BUT this is mountain Idaho. One day it is Indian summer; the next the snow may fall. And that is what happened to us; we wakened one morning to the proverbial weather forecaster's saying, "rain in the valleys, snow in the mountains". So we're off toward California. We will be "home-basing" out of the Napa Valley for the next month, visiting with Tom's mother. We plan on taking several California side trips -- to see what we can see on other scenic byways.
Postcard: The Pacific Rim
Sept. 25, 1997
The Road: From Parksville to Port Alberni, the road traverses the rural eastern island, down to Cameron Lake and through the old growth rain forest in MacMillan Provincial Park. This latter is a must see for some of the largest old trees on this Island. One has a girth of 30 feet! Up over the summit -- they ski here in the winter, but I would question how often -- and then down again to sea level in Port Alberni.
Port Alberni is a mill town at the end of Alberni Inlet, about 80 miles from the open ocean. Fishing is king here. The Labor Day fishing tournament winner will be around 50-60 pounds! There are charter boats available, and an excellent launching ramp for the fisherman who brings his own boat.
Several times a week, the M.V. Lady Rose brings mail and provisions to small logging camps on the Inlet and in Barkley Sound. This boat also takes persons who want to camp in the roadless wilds of the sound, as well as those who would just like a taste of life in this area via a one day round trip passage.
But back to the road. Once you leave Alberni (as the locals call it), it really gets interesting. First it traverses the shores of Sproat Lake, which has reported excellent trout fishing. (Few persons come to this area for fresh-water fishing, however). Then it winds up (and down) several 18% grades, and around some turns with rock outcroppings necessitating wide turns. The grades, however, are very short and interspersed with flatter areas. RVs can and do negotiate this road as do delivery trucks for the grocery stores in Tofino and Ucluelet. And the scenery is spectacular. Small (and some not so small) lakes, rushing rivers, roads which beckon the hiker or 4 wheel driver, all combine to give a sense of adventure. All too soon, the road flattens out and you have reached the west coast.
Now you have a choice. Turn left and you go to Ucluelet. Turn right and it's Tofino and the Pacific Rim National Park.
Tom wanted to go to Ucluelet, and I soon discovered why. Our trip was not quite as spontaneous as I had thought. He wanted to go bottom fishing! In the village is permanently moored a large ship serving as a hotel, (along with several land based units), a restaurant and the command center for fishing these waters -- both for salmon and for the cod, rockfish and hallibut which lurk on the bottom. We have quite a few salmon from fishing our home area -- but no bottom fish. So, this afternoon, he is off and I will revisit the Park and Tofino.
This Park is every bit as spectacular as I remembered. There has been one change -- now you must purchase a day pass ($8 Canadian) to park in the many parking areas and explore the beaches, hike the trails and visit the interpretive center. When you get your pass, you also get a map of the area, with descriptions of the trails and beaches you might visit.
The Wickaninnish Visitor Center is a good place to start. Here there are dioramas of the sealife, birds, whales and fish of the area. There are several short trails to hike. And there is Long Beach! Flat, hard packed sand stretches for miles down the coast. Small rocky isles receive the spectacular spraying and crashing waves. Today is sunny and warm; just perfect for beachcombing.
But Long Beach is not the only beach along this drive. I visited Florentia Beach, a very short walk from the parking area where the surfers (brrr!) were out in force and wetsuits. Combers Beach with its self-guiding nature trail through stands of Sitka Spruce, aerial gardens of moss and fern and crabapple swamps, is one of my favorites. All too soon I realized that if I were to get back to the hotel in time to see the return of the fishermen, I would have to move along.
While the village of Ucluelet has changed very little, the village of Tofino has changed a lot. Since we have been coming here, it has always been an artist colony. But now there are some housing developments going in, and some of the homes lining Chesterman Beach are quite expansive. There are many fishing oriented motels and B&Bs, and several luxury hotels. Here the tourist season extends well into the fall, whereas in Ucluelet, once the Canadian Princess closes for the season, it becomes, in the words of one native, "very quiet".
I always enjoy walking around Tofino. I visit the art gallery of Roy Henry Vickers in the center of town. The first thing you see when you enter the gallery is a wooden door, carved with Native symbols. Behind the door are the original examples of Vickers' art, exquisitely displayed. In the room behind, there are prints, cards and lithographs. There are several other galleries, all interesting, but this one is my favorite.
For the camper and RVer, there is Greenpoint Campground, a large (130 + sites) camping area on a bluff overlooking the beach. There are well treed areas for RVs, beach campsites for hikers, and walkin campsites for tents. This place is very crowded in summer, but they do take reservations. At this time of year, the place is yours. There are also several private campgrounds, many better for smaller rigs. One exception to size limitation is Crystal Cove Beach Resort. Here there are some 50 "serviced sites" and about the same number "unserviced".
Returning to Ucluelet, I was almost too late to see the boat come in. The fishermen had been very successful and pounds of rock cod, lingcod and cabezon were unloaded. The hotel staff fillets the catch, and each fisherman gets his catch, neatly packaged, to take home. From each of our viewpoints, a most successful afternoon.
Tomorrow, our trip-before-a-trip must come to an end. We do need to get home to pack up our "stuff" for the next one!
Postcard: Where do you go -- while you're waiting to GO?
Sept. 23, 1997
Even though we will leave within a week for our fall trip to Idaho, when Tom suggested a short "pre-trip" trip, I jumped at the chance. So we kenneled ("jailed") the dog, packed clothes for a couple of days, and headed for the ferry. We were off to Vancouver Island and whatever awaited us there.
However, the Washington State ferry system had other ideas. The direct ferry was full. Should we go home and wait for another day? Not us! If we couldn't go west by going west, we would go west by going east, next north and then take a Canadian ferry to the island. It would take longer, but since we had no specific destination in mind, this mattered not a bit.
This philosophy helped us through miles of highway construction near Bellingham, WA. It helped us decide if we would go directly to Vancouver Island or up the Sunshine Coast (the westernmost shore of the mainland, and a most interesting place to explore). "Wherever the next ferry is going, that's where we will go". Or, as Tom put it, "If we knew where we were going, we'd be in more of a hurry to get there!"
So, tonight we are in Parksville, some 25 km north of Nanaimo. This little town can be very crowded in summer, as it is right on the Georgia Strait, and offers water sports and fishing as well as access to many nearby golf courses. But tonight it is quiet, the restaurants are not busy (did I mention we are sans 5th wheel this trip?) and there are "vacancy" signs in many of the motels and resorts.
We may not have our 5th wheel this time, but we did find a wonderful camping area here. Rathtrevor Provincial Park has large, secluded, woodsy camp places, is within a very short stroll of a flat sandy beach, has interesting hiking trails, and beckons us as the place to stop when we are camping on the Island.
Tomorrow, we are off to the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Here we will revisit the towns of Ucluelet and Tofino. We haven't been here for about 4 years, and wonder what changes we might find. We should find no changes in the Pacific Rim National Park. This wonderful Park is in three sections, the Broken Islands, a cluster of islets in Barkley Sound; the West Coast trail to our south; and the Long Beach area stretching from the one town to the other.
Off we go....
Postcard: Flying to Florida
November 15, 1997
Without an RV, the trip from our Pacific Northwest home to Florida only takes a few hours. However, I love RVing and I am far from enamored with flying. Transcontinental flight, economy class, means being bottled up with other, similarly situated souls traveling speedily but sterilely to their destinations. Even the prospect of two days in a Naples resort hotel didn't make me too happy about flying. We had contemplated driving and stretching the trip out over a couple of weeks or so, but found we really didn't have the time. So off we went.
We arrived in Miami at night, had a quick light supper and set out for Naples the next morning. We chose to drive to Florida's west coast via the picturesquely named Alligator Alley. Would we see alligators? Cypress trees? The Everglades?
Alligator Alley is an 80 mile stretch of toll way. If you are looking for restaurants, places to spend the night or gasoline stations, you will be disappointed. If you are looking for nature, birds and the 'glades, you will love it. Even from the speeding car I saw anhuingas, egrets, hawks, herons and wood storks -- and berated myself for having left behind both binoculars and bird book. The Everglades stretch out for miles on either side of the roadway, beautiful and empty. There are several places where one can launch a small fishing boat, and we saw several fisherfolk out trying their luck. Both the launch areas and the one rest stop we saw came complete with one of two signs, either "Nighttime Security" or "No Security"! Florida has become very aware of its reputation as a trap for the unwary tourist.
Naples is on the West coast - the "Sun Coast". It is a lovely city, with an old section restored for shopping and antique browsing. Almost every street that runs to toward the water dead-ends at a beach access. Some of these have parking meters, others require beach passes; all provide access to one of the world's most lovely beaches. Hard packed white sand, some crushed (and some whole) shells, and gentle surf. the beach runs for miles, and with the easy access makes a wonderful walking or jogging area. North of Naples are the similar beaches of Estero, Sanibel and Captiva Islands. Beaches for everyone.
Although we were staying at a beautiful resort hotel, we are Rvers at heart. As such, we were on the alert for RV Parks. There are few in Naples, but to the north, and especially inland, we found more and more of them. We saw some very nice campgrounds, with wide grassy sites, flat (not a surprise in Florida where the highest point of land is 345 feet!) with full hookups. Many were right on or close to golf courses. Many were near water -- whether ocean, lake or inland waterway.
Tom was attending an American Bar Association meeting. He went to meetings, I went on an Everglades tour. Gator tours is somewhat misnamed as we saw no alligators in the wild. However, meeting the tour captain was reason enough to spend a few hours in a noisy air boat skimming through the mangroves. We were boating through and over his family's property, where he had spent most of his life. He bragged that he had only worn shoes three times in his life -- for two weddings and one divorce. Showing us some decidedly undersize crabs one of the many pots on the property, he declared that all were "keepers", as there is "not too much law in these parts". The Army Corps of Engineers got his blame for Everglades destruction. The use of dams in the area and later the destruction of the same dams, led to the intrusion of the Mangrove Trees (he termed them "weeds") which have ruined the water in the area. He told the tour that his brother and sister would have to move from their home since it is situated too close to an endangered panther area. Certainly a different perspective of events for this Pacific Northwesterner.
Two nights in Naples, then on to visit full-timing friends in Arcadia about 90 miles north and east of Naples. No more the intense humidity, the air and the land are much dryer. Here there are cattle ranches and orange groves. Numerous18 wheelers passed loaded with fruit probably destined for a non-Florida market. Have you ever noticed how the best produce from one area gets shipped to another? The best Idaho potatoes are not found in Idaho -- the best Washington apples go elsewhere. And so it goes...
Leaving Arcadia, heading southeast toward Miami, we passed through the sugar cane areas. Miles and miles of cane, with several sugar plants in full production assisting the setting sun in darkening the skies. We missed seeing Lake Okeechobee as it was hidden behind large levees, and we were hurrying to turn in our rental car, find a hotel and ready ourselves for the morning trip home.
We found a hotel right next to the airport and across the street from the rental car return. That was the good news. The less than good news was checking in with at least half of a Carnival Cruise, passsengers at the ready to start their vacations. The silver lining was sharing the buffet which the hotel puts out for the passengers -- delicious.
Now off on a transcontinental flight to San Francisco, a shuttle to Seattle and a ferry ride to our islands. Home again!!
Postcard: Point Reyes National Seashore
November 5, 1997
Having explored the coasts of Mendocino and Sonoma counties, it seemed only fitting to give Marin county a chance. What a good idea that was!
Travel north from San Francisco toward San Rafael. Turn west onto Sir Francis Drake Highway and follow it through San Anselmo and Fairfax, past the smaller towns of Woodacre and Lagunitas and wind through the redwoods of the Samuel P. Taylor State Park to Highway 1.
At Highway 1, you enter the town of Olema. Olema has a couple of restaurants, nice deli, a hotel and a "shaky" reputation. It has been the epicenter of several earthquakes, including the 1906 quake and the most recent, the Loma Prieta quake. One seismic "plate" is located directly on the west of Highway 1 here; another directly to the east. Earthquakes come naturally to Olema.
So does beauty. Only a mile more and you enter the park. We picnicked at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Here you can follow the Earthquake Trail for .6 mile, or walk to see the resurrected Kule Lokio, a Miwok Indian Village. The center is full of information for a day or longer trip. Camping in the park is backpacking camping and permits are available at the center.
We could have spent several days here. We had only a half day and so drove to Limantour Beach. A short drive, through groves of madrona and eucalyptus, over gently rolling hills, watching the redtail hawks soar! Heaven.
The soft sandy beach at Limantour was not very crowded. The birding was supreme. Some 450 different species have been counted at Point Reyes and I added substantially to my list of duck sightings.
If I had had more time to explore Point Reyes, I could have attended one of their field seminars, lighthouse tours or birdwalks. There was posted a calendar of the best fall times and places for tide pooling. There are two other visitor centers at Point Reyes which we had to miss. And in the winter, there are shuttle busses to view the gray whale migration and elephant seal breeding season.
This area, being closest to the metropolitan areas, gets the most visitors. However, in the "shoulder" seasons, it is absolutely lovely and demands another trip further to explore the seashore.
Now, however, it is time to return to our Islands and enjoy the Holidays with family and friends. Knowing us, we'll not be home long until the "go" bug bites again.
Postcard: Doran Park
October 30, 1997
This morning, we breakfasted at the Tides restaurant in Bodega Bay. We had a delicious breakfast, and quite enjoyed the performances which went with it.
The restaurant is situated on pilings over the water, and the procession of waterfowl swimming by was astounding. Coots by the hundreds, Bufflehead and Goldeneye, loons and grebes, all also out for breakfast. We watched a cormorant dive for and capture a small fish, swing it around to get it in the proper position for swallowing, and drop it! He promptly dived again and came up with another. This time he was much more cautious with its handling.
One star of the show was an enormous California Sea Lion. He swam right up to the windows, barked to show off his teeth, lay on his side and extended a flipper, and then remained motionless with his head and bulky neck protruding straight up out of the water. There he stayed until the cries of several gulls suggested to him that there might be fish in another area, and off he swam.
The tone of the day was set. This was to be a naturalist day. We started by finding a spot to stay at Doran Park, a Sonoma County Regional Park. The park is right between Bodega Harbor and Bodega Bay; on one side is the tidal area, on the other the ocean waves. This is not a dangerous surf area, in fact, the swimmers and surfers were out in force. In the summer, and often on weekends, the park is full, there are "overflow" lots for the day campers, and, according to our campground host, all the campsites are often taken. Its worth a try, however, this is a great spot.
The campgrounds here are beautifully set out. There are four separate areas, Shell, Gull, Cove and Jetty campgrounds. Each has several circles, with ten spaces each, all set so that each has its own view of the bay. There are cypress trees and flat sandy beach areas covered with ice plant and other succulents -- nature's landscaping. While there are no hookups, there is water available at each campground, and there is a dump station, albeit a difficult one to use.
Birding. I have never seen such flocks of shorebirds as are in Bodega Harbor. But then, I had never seen a Marbled Godwit before, and now I have seen several thousands. Mixed in with them were Killdeer, Black Turnstones, Sanderling, and Dunlin. Ducks included Northern Pintails, Lesser Scaup, Surf and White winged Scoter. I saw herons, brown and white Pelicans, and Great and snowy egrets. I had a wonderful time.
In the afternoon, we explored south toward Tomales Bay. This area has changed very little since we lived here long (can it be more than 30 years?) ago. But we didn't remember the Hog Island Oyster Company. It is located on Highway 1 almost at the head of Tomales Bay behind a now defunct antiques store. Delicious oysters in varying sizes, you choose and come away with delicious dinners, stews, or, in our case, hors d'oeuvres.
Treasure in hand, we were off for our new campground, a long beachwalk and dinner. We will definitely return to this area and to this campground, again.
Postcard: The Sonoma Coast
October 29, 1997
70 miles west of Napa, and 80 miles north of San Francisco, is the Sonoma Coast. The ocean town of Bodega Bay will serve as our home base for a couple of days while we explore.
We drove west from Napa through some of the premier California wine country. At Petaluma, vineyards become farms and ranches. Petaluma was once the chicken capital of the state; now the chicken coops have becomer relics and the chickens largely replaced by dairy cattle, sheep, and the ever-present llamas. The Petaluma Poultry Producers plant is still in existence, however.
Northwest through Two Rocks Valley to Valley Ford. Pumpkin patches abound -- every house has more than Jack-O-Lantern. If fact, this area is Halloween crazy -- there are Halloween banners attached to the eaves, "spider webs" hanging from the porches, witch faces in the windows and ghosts hanging from the trees. Today while getting some lunch groceries, it was hard to find a checker -- everyone was in the back of the store, putting candies in small paper bags, treats for the elementary school tomorrow! One young girl came into the store and told the clerk she was going trick or treating tomorrow. His response? "So am I"!
Bodega Bay is bisected by highway 1. The attractive houses on the shore side seem squashed between the road and the beach. There are several nice restaurants, a great fish market and several art galleries. We explored a nearby state park just north of town as a place to camp for the night, but found the sites a bit confining for anything other than the smallest of RVs, so chose instead the very nice, full service, Bodega Bay RV Park.
The Sonoma coast is gorgeous -- its moist and warm climate means everything grows here. Cypress trees impress with their twisted shapes and lush green needles. Pampas grass is wild along the roads. Ice plants and other succulents cover the cliffs. And it is wild. No carefree strolls along the beaches here; there are warnings for sleeper waves -- sudden waves which wash high up the beaches and which have been known to sweep children and adults out to sea. No free roaming for our dog; she loves to play tag with waves and would stand no chance against a big one.
This afternoon we made a scenic circle drive. Thirteen miles up the coast lies the tiny town of Jenner, our first stop. En route, the road winds along the coastal cliffs. There are beaches, with parking areas and access trails at least every mile as you drive north. The waves boom against the rocks and the brown pelicans soar along the wave crests. Two areas are to be avoided -- Death Rock and Goat Rock. They seem attractive climbing areas, but are so close to the water that there is danger from sleeper waves.
Jenner is at the mouth of the Russian River. Here we turned east and followed the river inland. In only 8 miles, we were in the heart of the Redwood country. Lovely big old groves shade the modest cabins beneath. Towns with names like Dutch Flat and Cazadero tempt the explorer. At Monte Rio, we turned south on the Bohemian Highway. Occidental is one of the prettiest of small towns in the are. It is beautifully preserved, with Victorian homes, hotels and B&B's attracting the traveler. It's well known for its bountiful Italian dining. Just south of Occidental, we left the Bohemian Highway and headed west again on the Bodega Highway. Home again!
Tomorrow we will dry camp at Doran Park, a county regional park and explore the country to the south -- Tomales Bay.
Postcard: Destination Shelter Cove -- The Problem and the Prize
October 23, 1997
It is only 25 miles from Garberville to Shelter Cove, a small resort village right on the ocean. Our first inkling that this might be an interesting trip came when we were informed that it would take us 90 minutes to get there... Surely that could not be right. We were going to drive, not walk!
It did not take that long, but it can take the better part of an hour; more if you stop to see the spectacular vistas and interesting homes and buildings along the way. There is quite a bit of traffic on the road, and from their rate of travel, they obviously knew the road better than we.
The road. It starts out tamely enough. The first couple of miles take you to the small community of Redway. Next you traverse one of the most beautiful stands of redwoods I have seen. Move over, Avenue of the Giants. Then in another few miles, here comes Briceland. The next small town is not on any map I have yet been able to find, Whitehill, CA. Here there is a nursery, a post office and a construction company, conveniently named Whitehill. The office of this company demands a stop and see. There is no way to describe it in words. The closest to a description came from one of the construction workers who said a small child described a portion of the building as "it looks like somebody stepped in bubble gum!"
So far, so good. We'll be on the coast in no time at this rate. Nope. This road has other plans for us. It adds hairpin turns and now there are only two directions -- up and down. The grades on this highway must be around 13-15% or more in places. The scenery is spectacular. As you climb the hills there are views of foggy valleys sprinkled with small farms, and which have intriguing names like "Nooning Valley" . The road climbs from 500 feet to 2100 feet and then in 5 miles, falls off (almost literally, it seems) to sea level. Tom was using our exhaust brake and third gear as we crawled down to Shelter Cove. There are a couple of campgrounds here and in the area, and with care, they are accessible -- though larger RVs would be challenged. We were very happy not to be towing today.
That's the "problem" part. The "prize" is well worth the effort. The bottom of the hill finds you in the King Range National Conservation Area, at the southern terminus of the Lost Coast Trail. You have arrived at the Black Sands Beach. For 24 miles, the trail takes you along the beach and over the cliffs at oceanside. A recommended 3 day backpacking trip, it appears to be one that few people make. Today there were two hikers returning from a trip; otherwise the beach was completely ours. This may be the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.
The town of Shelter Cove has several motels, a nice hotel, and a small RV park. There is a launch ramp on a "sheltered cove", and a sign on the marina store advertised boats for rent or charter. There were several vehicles with empty trailers parked on the sand next to the ramp, so fishing, or wishing, is still in full swing here. There is a golf course, and many homes with spectacular ocean views. There is also a landing strip;we were told that Shelter Cove was first envisioned as a secluded fly-in spot. The whole area is beautiful; perhaps crowded in summer, it is a wonderful fall drive.
Now back to Benbow Valley. I wonder what we'll do tomorrow....
Postcard: Scenic Byways -- The Redwood Highway
October 21, 1997
Leaving the Napa Valley and the St. Helena area, we headed north up California highway 29 --destination the Redwood Country. Highway 29 takes you to the small wine town of Calistoga, then through vineyard laden hills, and deposits you in Alexander Valley. Here many small family wineries line the roads. And the road makes some sharp turns avoiding them. One such turn brings you to within a few yards with of a beautiful old home painted blue/gray and white, with a sign designating it the Estancia Estate. A lovely home until someone, sometime, fails to make the 90 degree left turn and ends up in their front yard. Winding though it is, it is still and easy (if slow) drive for any size RV.
Once the road joins Highway 101, it straightens out and becomes mostly 4 lane as it travels north. About 100 miles will take you to the Benbow Valley RV Resort. Located just south of Garberville, this will be our "homeport" for the next several days. Tom was fantastic; he did the grocery shopping, set up the RV, and walked the dog. I played a few holes.
The Resort is located on the South Fork of the Eel River. It is within walking distance of the venerable Benbow Hotel for those who enjoy eating out; it has some lovely, non-traffic biking areas; and of special note, it has its own challenging hillside golf course. There are a number of scenic drives within a short distance of the Resort. We've listed the Benbow Valley RV & Golf Resort among our top picks. It seems others have found it worthy too, as it boasts winning the ARVC award for Best RV Park in the country for 1996. In our opinion it's deserved...
This morning we took off to explore the backroads of the Redwood Country. En route towards Eureka, we passed the Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt Redwoods and Grizzly Redwoods State Parks, following the Eel River all the way. Each of these drives would be interesting itself, but we had a destination in mind for today. The morning fog had not quite lifted; the redwoods loomed large and mysterious as we drove along.
About 12 miles south of Eureka, there is a turnoff for the town of Ferndale. It is advertised as the "Victorian Village" and it certainly fills that bill. Many of the homes have lovely Victorian facades; and are painted in the colors of that era. There is even a Victorian child's playhouse on Main Street. Today it was getting a barely needed new coat of Victorian paint.
We stopped to look around the "Golden Gait" mercantile. Here the floors are wooden, there are pickle barrels scattered around (no pickles though) and there are old Victorian remedies mixed in with more modern relishes and jams. I found a Marcell curling set. My grandmother marcelled her hair! And there were several bottles of "Lydia Pinkams Medicinal Compound". The folkgroup the "Irish Rovers" have a song about this "medicine" , but I did not believe it really had ever existed. I learned the story behind this "stuff", too. That it no longer contains the interesting ingredients of alcohol and codeine that it once had; that it was touted as a cure for "women's problems"; and its slogan was, "there's a baby in every bottle!" With those ingredients, relaxation would be one of its first byproducts.
Ferndale is the home of the inventor of Kinetic Sculpture racing, Hobart Brown. No, I had never heard of it, or him, either. In 1969, the first twelve racers with their sculptures on wheels raced down Main Street -- for fun and laughs. Now the race has been lengthened and made more challenging and there are many more entrants. Some of the sculptures include, the" Rabid Aqua-Bat", ( the first winner of the Peter Principle Golden Dinosaur" award for Outstanding Incompetence), the "Top Banana", the first overall Grand Champion, and the "Carrot Chariot", powered by 40 middle school kids. This sculpture earned special recognition and received the "Spirit of the Glorious Founder Award"!
The race now occupies 3 days, covers a 38 mile course, and is called the" World Championship Kinetic Sculpture Race". Each entry must be able to float as well as run on wheels, as the race crosses 2 miles of Humboldt Bay. There are awards for everything from winning to artistry, and from the pictures, it is obvious that the participants have a wonderful time.
Only five miles out of town is the ocean. We had a stroll along the sandy shore, and our Brittany had a run chasing killdeer (killdogs).
This area must be very crowded in the summer; today we seemed the only tourists in town. We were watched by about a dozen Night Crowned herons roosting on a large fir in the center of town. Bet the summer folks don't see that.!
Now back to Benbow, perhaps a short bike ride, and then a perusal of the maps to see where we shall travel tomorrow.
Postcard: Scenic Byways -- Levee Loops
October 16, 1997
Another set of dots on the map has become real to us. We decided to come to the Sacramento River Delta for a short stay and take advantage of the glorious weather central California is currently experiencing. The Delta area is a 1000 miles of waterway, winding around a series of Island and "Tracts" (which resemble islands as far as I can tell). These are created by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, which, with their myriad of subsidiary rivers and sloughs make the area a labyrinth of interesting places to go and things to see. The islands and tracts are created by a series of levees, ranging in height from 3 to 20 feet. Along the tops of the levees are winding roads which give a great glimpse of life here. I felt as if I were in the old South; pampas grass higher than my head, tall clumps of brown eyed susans, palm and eucalyptus trees, bougainvillea on the homes and lily pads in the back river eddies. Beautiful.
We camped last night at Brannan Island State Recreation Area, on a major slough just off the Sacramento River, about 3 miles south of Highway 12, the main route to Interstate 5, Stockton and Sacramento. The Trailer Life directory describes the sites here as "20x35". Short and narrow, eh? Perhaps that is the precise measurement of one of the sites; what the book does not tell you is that the campsites are typically spaced about 50 -75 feet apart from one another. (We've found this a common misdescription of state parks, and can't help but wonder whether this is an accommodation to the private RV parks which pay for advertising in the Directory). There is only water available here, but there is a dump station, and with care, we are self contained for quite a while using the sun to replenish the batteries each day. The park is quite large, with two areas for camping, three ramps for boat launching, a marina to dock your boat once it is launched, and a separate picnic and swimming area. Great birding ( Black Phoebes, Mockingbirds, Fox Sparrows and finches, and the gull population is booming). Our Brittany was so entranced by the number of Gray Squirrels that she ignored her dinner. Oh, and lest I forget -- the harvest moon! As glorious as I have ever seen it. You are so close to the real (and busy) world, and, at the same time, so very far away from it too.
The towns. Rio Vista. We have been through this town before, but never seen more than what's visible from a quite busy Highway 12. Highway 12 offers gas stations, some restaurants and a burning desire to be on your way. Rio Vista, the city off the highway, is charming, friendly and invites you to stay and enjoy the Delta. Oak lined streets, lovely old homes -- one with a "Widow's walk" on the roof, parks, marinas and restaurants.
We had breakfast at the River City Diner, one of those very small places where older gentlemen sit and drink coffee and discuss the local news. An excellent breakfast in a spot as far removed from a Dennys as it is possible to get. And then there is a second hand store, the "Second Coming". Around the store windows are printed a list of the articles you would be likely to find in this store. "Dresses, dust, toys, dust, appliances, dust, books, dust," and so on.
Tonight we are in the campground at Sandy Beach County Park, just south of town. It is right on the water and has electricity and water.
Going north on Highway 160, which traverses the levee on the east side of the Sacramento River, it's only a matter of minutes until you're into the center of town in Isleton, a small community of perhaps 200 residents. We were immediately struck by the fact that this somehow didn't seem like "California" at all. Perhaps that's because we've come to think of California as being all things new, glitzy, and commercial. Isleton is a sleepy river town, with a few remaining remnants of its Chinese heritage. This small towns, like others we were to visit on this "loop", is entirely defined by the waters of the delta which completely surround it. We could as well have been deep in the bayous of Louisiana, and never known the difference.
Walnut Grove. This town lies on both sides of the Sacramento River. On the West are the larger homes and farms, on the east the old town, with both a Chinese and a Japanese section. This part of town has yet to be restored, but the age and condition of the buildings is somehow intriguing.
Driving west from Walnut Grove, we took a ferry across Steamboat Slough to Ryer Island. Even though we take ferries to get to our island home, we go out of our way to take them whenever possible. And this ferry was right on our way. It crossed the slough in about 3 minutes, guided by cables.
We were off to visit Nicki Suard, the new owner of Snug Harbor RV resort. This small RV resort has a great deal of charm. It is situated right on the water -- something that the majority of resorts in this area are not. Usually you have to cross a levee road to get to the water. Nicki and her husband had recently acquired the property, and they are in the process of completely renovating both the marina and RV park. We think it will a real RVers "discovery" by next summer. The fully serviced sites not only have lots of trees and shade, but those along the slough have something unique: their own private dock! One of their first improvements was to become "modem friendly", as they had first contacted us through RVers Online. We will look forward to visiting next year to see how it is going.
Leaving Ryer Island we took another ferry! This one was not guided by cables, but run by diesel engines. We were the only car on the boat and the trip lasted a full 4 minutes -- shore to shore. The ferries serving Ryer Island are capable of handling any size RV. They don't run on any schedule. When a car or truck shows up, they set sail for the opposite shore. Best of all, they're free. With its upgrades completed, Snug Harbor will be one of a very few RV resorts which is accessible only by ferry!
We nicknamed the Rio Vista/Isleton/Walnut Grove/Ryer Island/Rio Vista trip the Old California Loop. From one side of our truck we could see the river and its related waterways; from the other side we could see the fruits of all this water. Pear Orchards, cornfields, smaller truck gardens, with attendant roadside stands, and marinas. There are places to camp, places to tie up your boat, places for jet skis and other personal watercraft, as will as places to fish.
And they do like to fish here. In June, there is a crayfish festival. In October, a Bass tournament. Sturgeon, black and striped bass, catfish, perch, crappie and sunfish are caught in the Delta. Fishermen on the riverbanks, fishermen anchored out in the water, lines flowing with the current. People were fishing off docks, from their boats tied up in marinas, and in ponds. It must be good fishing?
This afternoon we took another loop trip, this one through a more modern California. This area, to the south and east, is flatter and not so lush, but has many more amenities. Here are the larger marinas and RV parks. More marinas with more restaurants. This area seems to be geared first for the boater, next for the RVer with a boat and then for the RVer without. There are some very nice parks, but we did not find any that were on the water.
Most of the homes in the Delta are not on the water either, but rather set behind and below the levees. Therefore, most of the homes are built up, sometimes up three stories. The ground and first floors will have few windows. Then on the top level, levee level, there are picture windows, and often a deck to take advantage of the water views.
Our last loop trip was out to Bethel Island. We left Rio Vista, traveled south on state highway 160, and found ourselves in downtown industrial Oakley. Used car lots and junkyards formed an antithesis of our rural Delta of yesterday. Would we find the Delta here?
Yes, and no. Perhaps because of its proximity to the East Bay as well as Stockton and the northern San Joaquin Valley,Bethel Island seems a rural suburb instead of an out of the way spot. We discovered Sugar Bridge RV Park, which seemed very nice and has an adjacent restaurant right on the water. But the RV park itself was behind the levee; if you wanted a water view, you had to climb up to find it. And somehow, we found the atmosphere of the whole area different. Interesting, beautiful, but different.
There is a lot of the Delta left for us to explore. We would like to return to see more of the northern section. And our map shows ferries between many small islands which have no discernible roads upon them. Makes me wonder why the need for ferries at all. Next time, we shall see.
Postcard Postscript: Locke
November 3, 1997
Had we traveled only 1/2 mile further upstream from Walnut Grove, we would have discovered this gem of a town. Locke was built by those Chinese who had been driven out of the gold fields by the Irish miners. However, there was work for them here, on the railroads and building the levees.
The town is only one block long, but what an interesting block! Locke looks just like it used to; there is a prohibition of doing anything to any of these old buildings, except what is absolutely necessary to keep them from falling down. Therefore the sagging walls and roof lines will not collapse, but are reminders of what the town used to look like -- the buildings set very close together, with scenic walkways between some of them, wooden sidewalks protected by overhanging roofs, old and faded signs telling what stores used to be here.
Few people live in Locke (population: very small); there are two art galleries (not Chinese), one curio store (Chinese), one grocery store, and one restaurant.The old Chinese school was used until 1957 as a school-after-school for the children to help remember their heritage. The historical society has a museum in the old gambling hall. Here, in addition to myriad pictures and old newspapers, there are examples of many of the gambling games the men used to play. There is even a partition so that no one could look in and see who was gambling. Just in case someone's wife got curious!
Locke is a wonderful place to visit when you come to explore the Delta of the Sacramento River.
Postcard: Scenic Byways --Idaho
October 12, 1997
Most states have scenic byways, those roads marked with small dots on the map pointing out the prettiest ways to traverse the state. This past week we traveled three in central Idaho.
The "Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway ", Highway 21, leaves Boise and takes you to Idaho City. It's hard to believe that, at the height of the Idaho gold rush, this small town was the largest city in the state. A western motif town, Idaho City has boardwalk sidewalks, and western storefronts as well as art galleries and restaurants. (Calamity Jane's makes wonderful sobbin' (breakfast) potatoes).
Leaving Idaho City, the road climbs over Mores and Beaver Creek summits, (6000 feet ea.), winds through mountain forests, and descends into Lowman. Now it follows the South Fork of the Payette River. The South Fork is a "wild" river -- no dams -- and it flows over rapids, between tall cliffs and over natural waterfalls. It is a favorite of the white water kayaker, and in places is a serious challenge. In several places the river steams -- there are many pockets of natural hot water. In some you can actually have a geothermal bath!
As you climb out of the valley of the South Fork, you get a view of the Sawtooth mountain range which most tourists do not see -- one from the west. Now the road climbs over Banner Creek summit, an easy towing road even though the altitude is 7200 feet! The forests thin out and are interspersed with desert sagebrush. This is prime fishing and hiking country in the spring and summer, elk hunting country every fall and snowmobiling country each winter.
At Stanley, the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway joins Highway 75 out of Sun Valley and becomes the Salmon River Scenic Byway . We now follow the Salmon River en route to the city of Salmon and the Montana border.
This is a lovely trip, especially in the fall. The river is low, and when the weather is good, which is usually the case, the water fairly sparkles. The cottonwood trees lining the river banks have turned a glorious golden. The sumac trees show all colors of crimson. In the early mornings or late afternoon, you can see deer along with the cattle in the nearby fields.
Salmon is the largest of the small towns on this scenic byway trip. It has several nice motels and restaurants, and lots of "browsing" shops. It is also a good place to park an RV and take off in your tow (or toad) car for the third byway, the Lewis and Clark Scenic Byway.
Drive south on Highway 93, 20 miles to Tendoy. Tendoy is one store/gas station, a charming small schoolhouse, and several neighboring ranches. Turn left and follow the signs. For the first 10 miles, you wander up a canyon through ranches and farms. The gravel road will not allow for speed, which is fine. Coming around a bend this time, we were headlight to head with a herd of cattle, with Idaho cowboys herding them down to lower pastures for the winter.
The last two miles of the road are a steep rise to the Lemhi Pass and the Idaho-Montana border. At this spot, Lewis & Clark crossed the continental divide. Talk about seeing forever!. Now retrace your steps, or continue along the border. The byway is a loop which will return you to the Tendoy road.
BUT this is mountain Idaho. One day it is Indian summer; the next the snow may fall. And that is what happened to us; we wakened one morning to the proverbial weather forecaster's saying, "rain in the valleys, snow in the mountains". So we're off toward California. We will be "home-basing" out of the Napa Valley for the next month, visiting with Tom's mother. We plan on taking several California side trips -- to see what we can see on other scenic byways.
Postcard: The Pacific Rim
Sept. 25, 1997
The Road: From Parksville to Port Alberni, the road traverses the rural eastern island, down to Cameron Lake and through the old growth rain forest in MacMillan Provincial Park. This latter is a must see for some of the largest old trees on this Island. One has a girth of 30 feet! Up over the summit -- they ski here in the winter, but I would question how often -- and then down again to sea level in Port Alberni.
Port Alberni is a mill town at the end of Alberni Inlet, about 80 miles from the open ocean. Fishing is king here. The Labor Day fishing tournament winner will be around 50-60 pounds! There are charter boats available, and an excellent launching ramp for the fisherman who brings his own boat.
Several times a week, the M.V. Lady Rose brings mail and provisions to small logging camps on the Inlet and in Barkley Sound. This boat also takes persons who want to camp in the roadless wilds of the sound, as well as those who would just like a taste of life in this area via a one day round trip passage.
But back to the road. Once you leave Alberni (as the locals call it), it really gets interesting. First it traverses the shores of Sproat Lake, which has reported excellent trout fishing. (Few persons come to this area for fresh-water fishing, however). Then it winds up (and down) several 18% grades, and around some turns with rock outcroppings necessitating wide turns. The grades, however, are very short and interspersed with flatter areas. RVs can and do negotiate this road as do delivery trucks for the grocery stores in Tofino and Ucluelet. And the scenery is spectacular. Small (and some not so small) lakes, rushing rivers, roads which beckon the hiker or 4 wheel driver, all combine to give a sense of adventure. All too soon, the road flattens out and you have reached the west coast.
Now you have a choice. Turn left and you go to Ucluelet. Turn right and it's Tofino and the Pacific Rim National Park.
Tom wanted to go to Ucluelet, and I soon discovered why. Our trip was not quite as spontaneous as I had thought. He wanted to go bottom fishing! In the village is permanently moored a large ship serving as a hotel, (along with several land based units), a restaurant and the command center for fishing these waters -- both for salmon and for the cod, rockfish and hallibut which lurk on the bottom. We have quite a few salmon from fishing our home area -- but no bottom fish. So, this afternoon, he is off and I will revisit the Park and Tofino.
This Park is every bit as spectacular as I remembered. There has been one change -- now you must purchase a day pass ($8 Canadian) to park in the many parking areas and explore the beaches, hike the trails and visit the interpretive center. When you get your pass, you also get a map of the area, with descriptions of the trails and beaches you might visit.
The Wickaninnish Visitor Center is a good place to start. Here there are dioramas of the sealife, birds, whales and fish of the area. There are several short trails to hike. And there is Long Beach! Flat, hard packed sand stretches for miles down the coast. Small rocky isles receive the spectacular spraying and crashing waves. Today is sunny and warm; just perfect for beachcombing.
But Long Beach is not the only beach along this drive. I visited Florentia Beach, a very short walk from the parking area where the surfers (brrr!) were out in force and wetsuits. Combers Beach with its self-guiding nature trail through stands of Sitka Spruce, aerial gardens of moss and fern and crabapple swamps, is one of my favorites. All too soon I realized that if I were to get back to the hotel in time to see the return of the fishermen, I would have to move along.
While the village of Ucluelet has changed very little, the village of Tofino has changed a lot. Since we have been coming here, it has always been an artist colony. But now there are some housing developments going in, and some of the homes lining Chesterman Beach are quite expansive. There are many fishing oriented motels and B&Bs, and several luxury hotels. Here the tourist season extends well into the fall, whereas in Ucluelet, once the Canadian Princess closes for the season, it becomes, in the words of one native, "very quiet".
I always enjoy walking around Tofino. I visit the art gallery of Roy Henry Vickers in the center of town. The first thing you see when you enter the gallery is a wooden door, carved with Native symbols. Behind the door are the original examples of Vickers' art, exquisitely displayed. In the room behind, there are prints, cards and lithographs. There are several other galleries, all interesting, but this one is my favorite.
For the camper and RVer, there is Greenpoint Campground, a large (130 + sites) camping area on a bluff overlooking the beach. There are well treed areas for RVs, beach campsites for hikers, and walkin campsites for tents. This place is very crowded in summer, but they do take reservations. At this time of year, the place is yours. There are also several private campgrounds, many better for smaller rigs. One exception to size limitation is Crystal Cove Beach Resort. Here there are some 50 "serviced sites" and about the same number "unserviced".
Returning to Ucluelet, I was almost too late to see the boat come in. The fishermen had been very successful and pounds of rock cod, lingcod and cabezon were unloaded. The hotel staff fillets the catch, and each fisherman gets his catch, neatly packaged, to take home. From each of our viewpoints, a most successful afternoon.
Tomorrow, our trip-before-a-trip must come to an end. We do need to get home to pack up our "stuff" for the next one!
Postcard: Where do you go -- while you're waiting to GO?
Sept. 23, 1997
Even though we will leave within a week for our fall trip to Idaho, when Tom suggested a short "pre-trip" trip, I jumped at the chance. So we kenneled ("jailed") the dog, packed clothes for a couple of days, and headed for the ferry. We were off to Vancouver Island and whatever awaited us there.
However, the Washington State ferry system had other ideas. The direct ferry was full. Should we go home and wait for another day? Not us! If we couldn't go west by going west, we would go west by going east, next north and then take a Canadian ferry to the island. It would take longer, but since we had no specific destination in mind, this mattered not a bit.
This philosophy helped us through miles of highway construction near Bellingham, WA. It helped us decide if we would go directly to Vancouver Island or up the Sunshine Coast (the westernmost shore of the mainland, and a most interesting place to explore). "Wherever the next ferry is going, that's where we will go". Or, as Tom put it, "If we knew where we were going, we'd be in more of a hurry to get there!"
So, tonight we are in Parksville, some 25 km north of Nanaimo. This little town can be very crowded in summer, as it is right on the Georgia Strait, and offers water sports and fishing as well as access to many nearby golf courses. But tonight it is quiet, the restaurants are not busy (did I mention we are sans 5th wheel this trip?) and there are "vacancy" signs in many of the motels and resorts.
We may not have our 5th wheel this time, but we did find a wonderful camping area here. Rathtrevor Provincial Park has large, secluded, woodsy camp places, is within a very short stroll of a flat sandy beach, has interesting hiking trails, and beckons us as the place to stop when we are camping on the Island.
Tomorrow, we are off to the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Here we will revisit the towns of Ucluelet and Tofino. We haven't been here for about 4 years, and wonder what changes we might find. We should find no changes in the Pacific Rim National Park. This wonderful Park is in three sections, the Broken Islands, a cluster of islets in Barkley Sound; the West Coast trail to our south; and the Long Beach area stretching from the one town to the other.
Off we go....