Part way into what's turning into one of the most spectacular trips we've taken, we've concluded it would be well to document this adventure to the high desert Southwest.
May 2
Our first full day of travel took us via the Stanley Basin route, through Sun Valley, then east past Craters of the Moon, and finally into Pocatello. After checking the listings, we settled on the "Cowboy RV Park" for the evening. It's at the southeast end of town, just off the I-15 heading to Salt Lake. It turns out to be a delightfully clean and friendly spot, with generous sites and fine views southwesterly across to the nearby scenic mountains. We drove a bit through Pocatello. It is a quiet and "orderly" town, much like Boise was when we first moved there some 25 years ago. It makes a nice stopover en route south or east
May 3
Early the next day we were off in search of a route to somewhere in Southern Utah. We were torn between going straight down I15, which headed in the direction of Bryce and Zion; or going towards the Southeast corner, in search of adventure in the desert parks near Moab. Since I still hadn't recovered completely from my whirlwind weekend trip to Los Angeles, I found myself inclined to head "straight for" Zion, a previously selected "sure" destination.
However, as we passed south of Provo, and choose not to turn off on State Highways 89 & 6 for the more unknown and remote parts of the Southeastern part of the state, something made me pull off the highway into a shopping center -- at least long enough to look again at the map. Unhappily, we came to rest directly in front of a large bank. I knew Stephanie wouldn't be able to resist going in to withdraw still more cash! (She did.)
I began to detect that I, at least, was being driven to go too far too fast -- and that we were at serious risk of passing by the "blue lines". So around we turned, and headed back for the Highway 6 & 89 cutoff which would take us in the direction of Price, Green River, and Moab. Where we'd go from there we had no idea; but at least we were now going somewhere! I soon noted the road was tilting up to some pretty lofty heights. We'd already been over Galena summit, some 8,700 feet high. But that was starting from the Stanley basin area (at around 6,000 feet), and gently climbing all but the very last portion to the top. I'd noticed then a bit of black smoke from the exhaust as our 7.3 liter diesel (not turbo) strained to get us over the top. But the Utah mountains quickly proved to be more challenging. It seemed that everywhere we looked on the map of central to southern Utah, the options uniformly provided summits from 7,000+ to 9,000 plus feet. And it's not just one range to traverse, it's a series -- in any direction.
Our first contact with trying to marry a '90 Ford diesel with the Utah peaks caused us to (i) travel at incredibly modest speeds to get over the top at all; (ii) plan the rest of our routes with a keen eye to which options would provide the fewest of these challenges; and (iii) to begin to plan seriously for a new truck which could take on these challenges with less effort. In one way we felt we were seeing scenery in a very different way than in trips past. Instead of telephone poles going by at the rate of 6 to the 7th power, we were seeing instead individual trees -- even deer tracks along the side of the roads. Of course you do see a great deal more at 25 mph on these high-in-the-sky passes!
We followed Highway 6 to Price, where it joins Highway 191. The two go south to Green River together, and so did we. We arrived relatively early in the afternoon, and decided to stay at the Green River State Park, a spacious and green hideaway tucked along the Green River. We noted a nice private campground there as well, Shady Acres. If one felt the need for more amenities, it would no doubt be a good choice -- but the State Park had a simple charm which we enjoyed.
After studying the maps once again, we decided to spend the first half of the following day by driving down into the Canyon country, near Moab; and the second half en route back west to some unknown destination near Richfield or Bryce.
May 4
The sun had not yet risen when I sensed something moving in the coach. It was Stephanie returning for what she claimed was a superb hot shower in the very clean State Park facility. I reluctantly reached the conclusion that if I'd get up at this early hour, we could probably squeeze more into our intended trip to the Moab area. So we were off well ahead of seven bells, about 20 miles east on I-70 to the turnoff to Moab. From there, it was only about another half hour to Arches National Park, which is only a few miles short of Moab.
At the entrance the gatekeeper was greeting the first Park guests of the day, collecting a $3 fee, and answering questions. We noted a handful of RVs already waiting to claim whatever vacancies might occur that morning at the one and only Park campground, which is at the end of the 18 mile road which traverses the Park. When we arrived at the remote end and found the campground, we found it was virtually full already, with only those few RVers who'd lined up at around 7:30 when the gate opened having been assigned a spot. The campsites are pleasant, but a bit crowded. Most would accommodate a 5W of our size, but some would not. It appears that the Park staff collect the entrance passes from departing RVs, and thereby know which sites will be vacant an available for assignment to that day's new entrants. We found out later, when we stopped at the Visitor's Center, that the park had been filling each day between 7:30 and 8:00 a.m. Similarly, they had information indicating Dead Horse Point, across and northwest in Canyonlands National Park, was filling by around 10:30 a.m.
The Park itself abounds with fascinating hikes. We took one of the more interesting ones, visiting "Landscape", the longest stone arch in the world. It was truly a remarkable sight to climb up to, and under this incredible piece of natural sculpture. It's about a mile each way from the trailhead to a second trailhead leading very steeply up to and under the arch itself. We took the loop in the "backwards" direction just for fun, and managed to lose sight of the trail completely on the first climb up. We had to give up all that dearly gained altitude, and go back up the "right" way. But the hike was worth every bit of it. We were fortunate that it was so early in the day, as the temperatures are routinely into the 80s, and the sun is both bright and hot. And shade is at a premium. This area screams for early and late day hiking, with mid-days reserved for reading or computer-ing under the awning. The Park has one 10 mile 4WD road leading to a portion of the Park which is otherwise inaccessible -- and would be a good bet for a half day adventure on the next trip through.
Before returning to Green River, we cruised through Moab. It's becoming a fairly significant tourist center, with jeep rentals, aquatic gear, and lots of motels and restaurants. It has at least one quite nice looking tie up spot for RVs called "Slide Rock RV Park". It would serve as a nice base camp for exploring Arches, and perhaps a suitable option to trying to squeeze into the Park's only campground. However, Dead Horse State Park would also be a nice place to try on the next trip.
Reflections on Arches: Because of its relatively low altitude, and apparent dry climate, Arches National Park could probably be visited anytime after April 1 with favorable odds of pleasant weather. Canyonlands National Park and Dead Horse Point would make a nice complement for an area stay of several days.
We were back in Green River by noon, and soon hitched up and headed back west on I-70. We did an outstanding job of polluting the high mountain passes with heavy clouds of black diesel smoke, and confirming our commitment to bringing back more pulling power the next time we'd come this way pulling our 5W. Partly to avoid the peaks which the map said we'd encounter if we turned south on State Highway 89 to our intended destination at Panguich (outside of Bryce), we decided to stayed on I-70 to its termination at I-15, and then turn south towards Cedar City.
The day's end finally came some 50 miles further south at Beaver. I'm sure few people have ever heard of Beaver, Utah. But it's an incredibly clean and pristine little town just off of Interstate 15. Its setting, in a green valley between high mountain ranges to both the east and west, made it feel like a resort town without any resorts. With a population of around 1,000, it has few shops or services. But then it claims none either. It has a small but well manicured KOA, with generous sites, all well away from the noise of the Interstate. We came across it by accident, but its a place I would happily stay again.
May 6
Inspired in no small part by seeing the campgrounds at Arches National Park filled by 8:00 a.m., we decided it would be wise to head off early for Zion, if we were to have any chance to find a campsite in that National Park. We arrived in Zion by mid-morning, and had no difficulty finding a suitable shaded spot. In fact we cruised each of A, B, C, and D Loop looking over dozens of candidate sites before settling on one which best suited our needs.
Our experience in Zion started at the Visitor Center, where we oriented ourselves to our surroundings. We were still close to the West entrance. The main "canyon" of Zion continues uphill to the East, with a subsidiary canyon branching north, gradually narrowing until it virtually disappears into the rocks. This secondary canyon, which is accessed by a dead end 6 mile two lane road, is where most of the hiking trails are found. Half way up is Zion Lodge, a smaller version of the Lodge at Yosemite. The comparison seems especially apt, in that Zion begins to feel a lot like Yosemite, but with far fewer tourist amenities.
We took the road to ends end point, which is the trailhead for a short one mile hike up the Virgin River where the canyon has narrowed to a point that a road is no longer an option. The canyon floor continues to narrow from about 300 feet across at the beginning of the trail, to about 40 feet across at the trails nominal end. At this point the canyon floor is the river, and there's no way to go further without wading upstream -- which to our considerable surprise is exactly what lots of people were doing. It seems that the "canyon", with its watery floor, continues on for literally miles. But it is only accessible to those who opt to walk and/or swim, as seasonally necessary, on up the "trail". Warning signs rate this part of the "trail" as "extremely dangerous", down to "easy", depending on stream volume, the potential for flash flooding that day, etc. It seemed really odd to see people with quality hiking boots walk right into the water and on up the stream, slipping and falling on the slippery rocks beneath the surface. We weren't really even tempted to try!
That evening we decided to attend a Forest Service presentation at the ampitheather adjacent to our campground. The "presenter" was a young Forest Service employee whose topic appeared simply to be why she choose to live and work in Zion. We've seen dozens of nightly outdoor presentations, usually with someone lecturing about plants, animals, geology, or the stars above. But this one was different. This woman was doing a one-person theater! She acted out her life first as an eight year old living in a small town nearby; then as a fourteen year old who wanted desperately to move far away from this place; and then finally as to a young professional woman who found her "thing" being a Forest Service Ranger right here in Zion. For each stage of her life she acted out, she put on a different hat. Her performance was magnificent!
At the end I joined a small group who stayed after -- I assumed for the same purpose I did: To tell her how different and interesting her presentation had been. To my surprise, most were there for other reasons. One chap, from New Jersey, had been offended that his State had been referred to in what he considered to be an adverse comparison to the Zion area. Another, from the Northwest, said that while Southern Utah had some interesting spots to visit, one had to travel hundreds of miles between them through completely "empty" country. At least in the Northwest, he explained, there are lots of sandy beaches and other "pretty" places not widely separated by nothingness. I was astounded as the last of the visitors departed, without a single one having recognized the talent and personal effort which had gone into her performance. Of course I praised her heartily for such a creative and imaginative job well done. She was obviously pleased that at least someone had noticed...
May 7
This was a day of an intended circle tour to Bryce Canyon. We didn't know precisely which return route we'd take, but we noted several options on the map. For several days there had been predictions of deteriorating weather for today and tomorrow, but so far days had been pleasantly warm, and nights had been mild. This Saturday morning started just like those which immediately preceded it, with clear skies and mild temps. We had noticed references both on signs near the west entrance to the park, and also from the maps, which suggested restricted travel heading east through Zion en route to Carmel Junction. We were about to find out why...
The sun had barely begun to illuminate the sheer high peaks of Zion's west walls when we rolled out of our campsite and headed East. Within minutes we had begun climbing from our 4,000 foot base camp. Our scenic route took us directly towards a towering wall which appeared completely insurmountable without the benefit of a helicopter. After a half dozen switch backs which took us steeply into the face of the oncoming cliffs, we found ourselves at the entrance to Zion's narrow tunnel exit. Vehicles wider than a passenger car, or taller than a van, need a special $10 escort car to lead them for the 1.1 miles through the solid rock. While the tunnel will physically accommodate a normal RV, it can only do so if all traffic is stopped while the RV goes right up the middle.
One through, we found ourselves immediately into some of the most fantastic scenery we'd ever seen. We were in the midst of one of the most unusual Navajo sandstone formations to be found anywhere. The information we'd read described how, over millions of years, sand had blown into dunes. There was a considerable amount of lime in the sand. When water was added, the lime "cemented" the grains of sand together forming lawyer upon layer of crusty rock. Add a few million more years, and a lot more rain, and the lime began melting away, causing huge chunks of this layered rock to fall to the valleys below, where they would virtually explode back into grains of sand once again.
However all this happened over the eons, this warm sunny morning it was an incredible sight. There were sandstone dunes and sheer cliffs. Much of this artwork was tilted on graceful upward curving surfaces which somehow beckoned anyone who saw it to want to just go "walk on it". Others had obviously had the same impulse, as there were cars pulled over on the side while their occupants hiked up some of the gently sloping sandstone surfaces. Where there was even a hint of a soil like substance grasses, wildflowers, and even trees had attached themselves to what appeared to be a most meager base. At this particular season the Indian paintbrush was a brilliant red, and it was to be found almost anywhere we looked. Obviously this was a chosen spot for serious photographers as well, as there were many of them out at this still early hour taking advantage of the early morning shadows which provided a never ending series of breathtaking vistas.
As we left Zion, we continued to gradually increase our elevation to Carmel Junction, where the traveler has a chance to go South to the North rim of the Grand Canyon, or North to Bryce Canyon. But Carmel Junction itself shouldn't be overlooked. Though a town of only perhaps two hundred inhabitants, it has one of the most spectacular 9 hole golf courses we'd yet seen on the trip. At 9:00 on this Saturday morning there was only one person playing it!
In another hour we entered Bryce Canyon, at almost 8,000 feet. The sky had begun to cloud over, and the temperature at this altitude was cooler than we'd been used to -- about right for jeans and a sweat shirt. We wanted to take best advantage of our short stop at Bryce, so after a tour of the Visitor Center we headed out to Sunset Point. We hadn't found a good description of the hiking trails, but we immediately noted that a trail called "Navajo Loop" descended down into the canyon from Sunset Point. The sign indicated that it was only 1.3 miles, but we couldn't really tell exactly how steep it was. Since the mileage was short, we started down the path. It was steep, and then steeper still. We couldn't help but think of the fact that what goes down would have to come back up again. At 8,000 feet I find that the air doesn't sustain a normal level of energy. It was little comfort when Stephanie reminded me that the situation was quickly getting better as we were quickly diving well below the 8,000 foot level. Whatever the strains of the climb down and back, the scenery was out of another world. Towering spires, lofting hundreds of feet into the air, are fascinating to look down on from the observation points along the rim. They are all the more interesting when one is actually down there "in them", and looking up.
When we finally did get a vista back to the canyon's rim -- from whence we'd come -- it seemed so far away that no mortal could easily find his way that far back. But of course we did, taking in one unique view after another, and following the trail back up its winding course of switch backs eventually to the top. We hadn't even notices that the clouds had increased further, and a light snow had begun falling. Warmed from the heat of the uphill chase, it felt wonderful to us, even though we had on only light tee shirts. Not more than moments after we arrived back at the rim, the snows came in much colder and more serious quantities. We were glad our exit had been timed so fortuitously.
Reflections on Bryce: As Bryce is located at 8,000 feet, the season here is somewhat more confined to the peak summer months. Even so, there was an ample supply of tourists here on this early May Saturday morning. A significant portion were foreign visitors, primarily from Germany. Inside Bryce there are two campgrounds, only one of which was yet open. We toured the other, and found the sites attractive, though "level" appeared to be at a premium. Just outside the Park entrance is Ruby's Inn Campground, part of a larger resort complex which, though "touristy", is a most attractive facility. If hookups were on the menu, this would be the place to stay. Another option would be Panguich, which at 6,500 feet, offers some slight relief in elevation, and therefore temperature.
But the day was only a bit more than half over. We'd planned to return by one of the several "loop" routes promised by the map. With hindsight (on many occasions) we probably shouldn't give such credence to maps -- or even the AAA books which come along with. Our options appeared to be (i) go to Panguich, thence over a very light gray line to Cedar Breaks and down to Cedar City; (ii) go north to a lower pass which would bring us back to I-15 some miles north of Cedar City; or (iii) go back the way we'd come, with perhaps a detour through Kanab. The weather grew more gray, and the temps fell. Even as we arrived at the first decision point, small white flakes bounced off the windshield. With only that as the "input" we decided we'd simply go back the way we'd come, which was, for the most part, downhill.
But as we headed south I noted that while the weather had caused us to have our headlights on, the cars coming from the south no longer were showing theirs. And as we approached Highway 14 which crossed over to Cedar City, the sky lightened considerably. Why not? we said. Why not go over the top? So.....we did.
It would be 40 miles, only, to cross the peaks to Cedar City and the lower valley below. Some cars were coming over that same hill with piles of snow. But others were not. Could it be that the ones without snow had come from some closer point? Well, we have 4WD, so why not see what a 10,000 foot pass might look like in early May?
As the altimeter inched upwards, the snow on the side of the road thickened, but still did not encroach the roadway. A few miles from the summit the sky darkened, and what appeared to be a thick fog loomed directly in front of us. But fog it was not. It was a wall of snowflakes expressing winter's last effort to control this wooded high mountain terrain. For a mile or two we experienced an almost complete white out. On our right came the turnoff for Cedar Breaks National Monument, which we had considered visiting. But no. The gate was slammed shut, and it was clear the snows had not yet cleared sufficiently to permit access. So on over the top we went, reaching some 10,000 feet of elevation.
Once over the top, the road dropped precipitously to Cedar City, where we provisioned, and then completed the loop back to our camp site in Zion. Looking back at that summit trek, I recall only the "whiteout" which lasted but a few minutes. It was really easy with hindsight. Our diesel was perfectly happy topping those peaks -- so long as we were towing nothing along. A great vehicle. Strong. Comfortable for us. Just so long as we didn't place the demands of a towed home. Even as it performed with perfection, I was beginning to consider its replacement.....
May 8
From the bottom of the valley in Zion canyon we could see the first rays of sunlight illuminate the highest peaks across the valley. We decided to celebrate the day by taking a hike up the canyon wall to a place called "Watchman Overlook". Compared to the day earlier, the trail was relatively easy, rising some 800 feet in about 1.5 miles. Along the way we could track the progress of the sun against the high western walls of the canyon. I offered to pick Stephanie a bouquet of fresh wildflowers for Mothers Day, knowing she would recoil at the thought of disturbing even a single one of those tiny delicate flowers which grew in such profusion along the rocky sides of the trail we were ascending. So we compromised. We created an imaginary bouquet "picking" from as many different kinds of wildflowers we could find. And we found lots.
Some we recognized, like the brilliant red Indian paintbrush. For others, representing virtually every color of the rainbow, and which came in all shapes and sizes, we made up names. Perhaps the most delicate were the tiny "red horns". The most unusual, at least to us, was the full pink blossom provided by what appeared to be a local hybrid of beavertail and prickly pear cactus. Since we'd left while the rest of those in the camping area appeared still to be asleep, we were of course the first mortals to reach the high overlook at the top of the trail. It was, in a very real way, as if we'd seen something that day that no one who would later venture up the trail could ever see.
Reflections on Zion: This National Park is open year round. Because the West entrance is comparatively low for Southern Utah, the tourist season here is longer than in the high country. We had no problem whatever in finding a choice of camp sites at either one of the two adjacent campgrounds which are located just inside the Park entrance. However, by nightfall both campgrounds seemed to near capacity. The sites are mostly shaded, and more spacious than a typical commercial park. All camping is "dry", though there is a dump station and fresh water supply. Just outside the park there is a commercial park with all amenities which appeared to be a good option if hookups were desired.
May 9-15
Our return took us through Las Vegas, with an overnight at the always pleasant KOA in Barstow. We hadn't been there other than in the winter months, and it was pleasant to find that the shrub-enclosed sites were aflame with oleander, creating privacy walls of sheer bouquet. The balance of the return trip followed a familiar course, except for some new experiences northward on Highway 97.
Of course our return brought us "home" to our family winery at St. Helena, where we enjoyed on of those very special family occasions with Mom. Our first night on the road after spending two pleasant days at St. Helena was about 30 miles north of Klamath Falls, OR. There we found Collier Memorial State Park at approximately MP 244. It is an excellent stopover point, with individually landscaped sites woven into a healthy stand of Ponderosa Pine. There are a dozen or so pull through sites, but most of them are easy back in spaces. Each of the back in spaces is at least 60 feet long, and is bordered by flush-sunken 6 x 6 treated timber which encases a bed of clean crushed rock. The Park is sufficiently off the highway to minimize traffic noise. A short walk away is another State managed facility -- a museum dedicated to the early logging industry in Oregon. It has a large number of artifacts spread over multiple acres. It is well worth the time to walk through these exhibits.
Further up 97 we stayed over two nights at Maryhill State Park, on the north bank of the Columbia just into Washington. This Park is a favorite with sailboard worshipers, and on a warm windy day (which is the norm in summer months) it would be difficult to find an open space. We happened by during warm (but not hot) weather, but with little wind -- so the competition was less keen. Nevertheless, we had only about 20% of the sites to choose from when we arrived on a late Friday morning, and by early afternoon the place was completely full.
All in all we experienced good weather in these locations at this particular time of year. We were both very impressed with the high mountain country of southern Utah. It's clearly a place which invites a return trip anytime between April and mid-June. Hopefully next time we're in that neighborhood we'll have enough pulling power to feel comfortable in taking on the uphill challenges which that portion of the country offers to a towing vehicle!
Editor's note: we've since switched to a Dodge turbo diesel, and no longer experience a lack of power and performance...